Is missing auto exposure bracketing a deal-breaker on an entry-level DSLR like the Nikon D3400?
Asked 12/11/2018
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I'm moving up from a Nikon Coolpix and considering the Nikon D3400, but I noticed it doesn't have auto exposure bracketing (AEB). I may also consider the D5300.
I mainly want to shoot:
- events such as weddings and birthdays
- my kids
- travel
What I want to improve over my current camera is:
- better low-light/indoor image quality with less noise
- more background blur (bokeh)
- better reliability and responsiveness
For a beginner, how important is AEB? In what situations would it really matter, and are there practical workarounds if the camera doesn't include it?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
7y ago
2 Answers
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Considering how many D3000, D3100, D3x00, etc. cameras Nikon has sold, AEB is not a 'deal breaker' for many buyers.
Whether it is a deal breaker for you or not depends on your own personal preferences and plans for usage.
You can do manual exposure bracketing and bracket by changing 'Exposure Compensation' between each successive frame when using semi-automatic exposure modes. You can do manual exposure bracketing by changing the shutter speed manually between each successive frame in manual exposure mode.
Or you can buy an entry level Pentax DSLR or Canon EOS camera. I'm most familiar with the Canon line. All of their entry level, as well as all of the higher level models, include some form of AEB. The Canon model most equivalent to the Nikon D3400 is the Rebel T6/1300D. It has AEB with 3 shots +/- 2 EV in full, 1/2, or 1/3 stop increments. Some of Canon's higher level models offer AEB for up to 7 shots in increments of +/- 3 EV in full, 1/2, or 1/3 stop increments.
Originally by user15871. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user15871
7y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
For most beginners, lack of AEB is usually not a deal-breaker.
AEB mainly helps when you want several different exposures quickly, such as for tricky lighting or HDR workflows. If you need it, you can still bracket manually by changing exposure compensation between shots in an auto mode, or by changing shutter speed in manual mode.
For the uses you listed—events, kids, and travel—other things are typically more important than AEB: responsiveness, short shutter lag, good low-light performance, and lens choice. Capturing the moment matters more than automated bracketing in those situations.
Also, better low-light clarity, less noise, and stronger background blur will usually come more from moving to a larger-sensor interchangeable-lens camera and using suitable lenses than from having AEB.
So: if you already know you want frequent HDR or exposure-bracketed shooting, AEB may matter. Otherwise, it should not be a primary decision point for a first DSLR.
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AI7y ago
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