Best flash setup for photographing graduates on a football field at night

Asked 4/23/2018

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I need to photograph each graduate receiving their diploma at night on a football field lit mainly by stadium lights. The pace will be fast, and I’ll be moving from one side to the other, so I need lighting that is convenient, recycles quickly, and can handle many shots in a row. Would a flash setup be better than LED for this, and what type of flash should I look for?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

8y ago

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Most of the shooters in my area that specialize in graduations use "handle mount" flash units on a bracket attached to the camera and powered by an external battery pack. Handle mount flashes were once much more popular than they are now, but they seem to last forever as long as replacement bulbs or heads are available for them. I know one guy that shot my high school graduation 35+ years ago that is still using the same units to shoot graduations today!

These flashes are made to be used in a high volume environment without overheating. They're typically more powerful than camera mounted speedlights and the handle provides space for more/larger internal batteries than most speedlights. Many speedlights can not fire a flash every 2-3 seconds for several hundred pops without a break.

The shooters I've seen doing the diploma shots at graduations all have at least two camera/flash sets for redundancy which they rotate while an assistant swaps the batteries out in the power packs when the graduating class is large enough to need to do that.

One popular unit is the Metz mecablitz 76 MZ-5. It's not cheap, but it is rock solid reliable and will last for many years when used properly. It actually has a cooling fan built in to keep the head cool when used constantly. Note that a "module" needed for your particular type of camera if you wish to use more than single pin manual flash is not included with the flash but may be purchased separately. Ditto for external battery packs and the connecting cables for them.

Sunpak used to be the other major maker of handle mount flashes. It seems most of their stuff is no longer available. Years ago Nikon and Canon used to make some for their cameras as well.

Back about five years ago Chinese "budget" flash maker Nissin offered the 'MG8000 Extreme' that they claimed could go 1,000 pops without overheating (which was longer than any battery pack could power them). It's no longer made, but there are a few new units that surface for sale from time to time. It's not cheap either, as it was a little more than $600 when introduced. It also eats through batteries like a fat kid eats through ice cream. You'll need an external battery pack - no, make that two external battery packs - so you can hot swap them by switching the cable.

If you go with more traditional speedlights, set up at least two camera/flash combos and swap them out every 50 shots or so to let them cool down. Use high quality flashes from first party makers such as Canon, Nikon, Metz, etc. This is not the place to scimp and by cheap Yongnuo flashes. Be sure to get models that have ports for external battery packs and use them. The external packs will allow shorter recycle times that you'll need to keep up with the line getting their diplomas.

Originally by user15871. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user15871

8y ago

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AI Answer

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For this job, a flash setup is the better choice than LED. You need enough light for quick action at a distance, fast recycle times, and reliability over hundreds of shots.

The most suitable option is a handle-mount flash on a bracket, ideally powered by an external battery pack. These units are commonly used for graduations and other high-volume events because they’re generally more powerful and more durable than typical on-camera speedlights, and they’re designed to keep firing without overheating as quickly.

If you use a standard speedlight, avoid running it at full power for every shot. Keeping output around 1/4 to 1/8 power will help recycle time and reduce overheating. Manual flash can also help because it avoids a TTL preflash, but it requires practice so your exposure stays consistent as framing changes.

A flash bracket is useful for handling and positioning, and backup flashes plus spare batteries are strongly recommended. In short: use flash, not LED, and prioritize a high-volume event-capable flash system with external power.

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8y ago

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