Why do my photos look softer and noisier when I zoom all the way in?
Asked 6/17/2011
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I’m using a Canon 60D with an 18-200mm zoom. Photos taken close up look sharp, but when I zoom to the long end for distant subjects like birds or the moon, the images often look soft, fuzzy, or noisy.
I’ve tried different auto and basic exposure settings, but telephoto shots still don’t look as sharp as nearby subjects. Is this mostly due to technique, the limitations of a superzoom lens, or both? What should I change to get sharper long-zoom photos, especially for birds and the moon?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
15y ago
2 Answers
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Typically, the rule is 1/focal length seconds of shutter speed for getting sharp pictures with stationary targets. So if you're shooting at 100mm, try to get at least 1/100th of a second in shutter speed. 50mm = 1/50th of a second. So if you're below that and there's no kind of image stabilization either get a tripod, monopod, brace yourself, or set the camera on something to get sharper pictures.
Also, with that lens, your aperture slows down as you zoom in if you're wide open. You literally can't shoot as fast on the long end as on the wide end.
For action shots, try between 1/320th of a second and 1/500th of a second shutter speed to freeze a lot of the action.
You can stop your lens down a bit to increase sharpness, but you'll need to raise your ISO to account for the drop in light to keep the same shutter speed. This may or may not be the source of your problems. Usually, image quality problems from wide open apertures are described more as 'soft' rather than 'fuzzy'. 'Fuzzy' is often the lack of high enough shutter speed and hand holding.
To take a decent picture of the moon, you're going to need a lot longer focal length, a tripod, and a fairly fast shutter. You can do it handheld, but not normally nearly as sharp.
In general, tripods are a decent investment when using longer focal lengths if you don't have good image stabilization or good high ISO (and a lot of times even then).
Originally by user1917. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user1917
15y ago
0
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It’s probably mostly technique, with some lens limitations.
At long focal lengths, tiny camera movements are magnified, so you need a much faster shutter speed. A common guideline is at least 1/focal length, and for birds or other moving subjects often around 1/320 to 1/500s or faster. If shutter speed drops too low, you’ll get blur from hand shake and subject motion.
Your 18-200mm also becomes slower at the long end, so the camera may be forced into slower shutter speeds or higher ISO, which can add blur and noise. Superzoom lenses are also usually a bit softer when fully zoomed in. Stopping down a stop or two can improve sharpness, but then you’ll need more light, higher ISO, or a tripod.
For distant subjects, haze, dust, and atmospheric distortion can also make images look less crisp.
For the moon: the moon and landscape are far apart in brightness, beyond what one exposure can usually capture well. Shoot around dusk/dawn when the brightness difference is smaller, and use a sturdy tripod.
In short: use faster shutter speeds, stabilize the camera, avoid the very slowest handheld settings, and expect some softness at the extreme end of a superzoom lens.
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