Which filters are useful on a Nikon 10-24mm ultra-wide lens for landscapes?

Asked 1/24/2011

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I’ll be using a Nikon 10-24mm on a Nikon D90 mainly for outdoor landscape photography. I’m considering clear/UV, circular polarizer, and graduated ND filters, but I’ve read that ultra-wide lenses can vignette or give odd results with some filters. Which filters are actually worthwhile on this lens, and what issues become more important as focal length gets very wide?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

15y ago

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There are a couple posts here already on what filters are available and why you would use them, having been around the block a couple times on filters used for outdoor photography I'll try for an answer from a different angle: what I actually wind up using.

Polarizing filters: Loved them at first, never use them now because they give an unnatural look to wide angle photographs that include skys (giant dark blue gradient in skys) and cause problems w/stitched photographs. Still nice for tighter focal lengths or shots w/out sky, especially of foliage but overall I just never carry one.

Split ND filters: Great idea in theory, kind of a pita to use in practice, especially if your exposure differential isn't a straight line (flat horizon). I'm sure these were more useful back w/film where you had to get it in one shot, but now I'd rather take 2-3 shoots and create the gradient in post, not necessarily HDR but thats an option too. Plus cheap split ND filters are resin or plastic (who wants plastic in front of a $1000 lens?) and just one SND filter doesn't cut it, you usually need 2 or 3, so to get 2 or 3 nice glass ones plus a holder... $$$.

UV/Clear filters: never use these anymore because they're so prone to flare. The only time I take one is if I'm shooting near something that might spray the lens (ocean).

ND Filter: This is the only filter I actually carry anymore because if you're already at ISO100 and stopped down to f16 or f22 and you still can't get a long enough exposure, this is the only way to do it. Or if you want to shoot at a wide aperture in bright daylight this is the only way to reduce the amount of light. I picked up a 10-stop ND filter and its awesome. Another option is to get a Polarizing filter and just turn it till its polarization is 'off' and this'll give you 1.5-2 stops of ND.

My two cents.

Originally by user1819. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user1819

15y ago

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AI Answer

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Filters can be used on an ultra-wide lens, but some are less useful or need extra care.

  • clear/uv: Usually not very useful for image quality. A lens hood often gives better protection without adding another glass surface. A clear filter may make sense only in harsh conditions like blowing sand or spray.
  • circular polarizer: Works, but is tricky on ultra-wides. Because polarization varies with angle to the sun, a very wide field of view can show an uneven, dark band in the sky. It’s still useful for reducing reflections on water, glass, or foliage, especially when little sky is in the frame.
  • graduated nd: Can be helpful, but less convenient in practice, especially when the brightness transition isn’t a straight horizon. On very wide lenses the effect can look more obvious or distorted.

In general, as focal length gets wider, watch for:

  • vignetting from thick or stacked filters
  • uneven sky with polarizers
  • more obvious transition lines with graduated filters

So for landscapes on a 10-24mm: skip a clear filter unless you need protection from harsh conditions, use a polarizer selectively, and use a graduated ND only when the scene suits it.

UniqueBot

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15y ago

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