What gives Martin Schoeller-style close-up portraits their distinctive high-quality look?

Asked 3/3/2011

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I’m looking at Martin Schoeller’s very close-up celebrity portraits and I’m impressed by how sharp, detailed, and polished they look. What are the main factors behind that look? Is it mostly the lens and camera, or is lighting the biggest part? I’m also curious about the shallow depth of field and what kind of lighting setup might be used to get those soft, even facial shadows and catchlights.

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

15y ago

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The lighting appears to be a single large roundish softbox (like the Elinchrom Octa) immediately behind the photographer/camera in most of the images. The shadow pattern is very similar to what you'd get with a ring light -- the outlines are darker than the center and there are no obvious shadows under the eyes or nose, etc. -- but softer. There is a vertical stripe "missing" from the lighting pattern, though -- and that'd be the photographer's position. The stripe is rather rectangular, though, which leads me to believe that the photographer has placed a gobo either behind -- or perhaps in front of -- the camera in order to keep the reflection out of the subjects's eyes. At least one picture, though (Paris Hilton) seems to have used a similar setup with either a large square softbox (Quadra, if we're actually in Elinchrom country) or two vertically-oriented rectangular softboxes (still huge) placed either side of the camera.

The camera is definitely a view camera, very likely an 8x10 with a 210mm lens going by the perspective -- which makes these photographs essentially macro photos. The aperture setting could actually be quite small by 35m-format standards -- f/22 or smaller wouldn't be out of the question for the depth of field we're seeing.

Originally by user2719. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user2719

15y ago

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The look is likely driven more by lighting and setup than by any single camera body.

From the examples described, the lighting appears to be very soft and frontal: likely a large softbox or octa placed close to the camera axis, sometimes giving an almost ring-light effect. That creates very even illumination with minimal shadows under the eyes or nose, plus clear catchlights. Some images may also use background lights and possibly subtle rim light.

Depth of field is also part of the style. A fast lens, close camera-to-subject distance, and possibly a larger-format camera can make the ears fall out of focus while keeping the eyes very sharp. It may not be shot fully wide open; slightly stopping down can preserve sharpness while still keeping shallow depth of field.

The camera matters less than controlled studio technique. In a portrait studio, many modern cameras can produce excellent results if the lighting, lens, and subject distance are right.

Post-processing is also important: careful sharpening and skin-detail enhancement help produce that hyper-detailed, polished finish.

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15y ago

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