There are two possibilities here:

• Shoot RAW and none of those settings matter. The only reason to set them in this case is to see something appealing on the LCD since the settings are used to render the embedded JPEG in RAW files and that is shown on the rear LCD during Instant Review and Playback.

• Shoot JPEG and set most settings in-camera. When the camera processes RAW data for rendering the JPEG image, it does so using the full-sensor color-depth which is often 12 or 14 bits in depth. When you process the JPEG in Lightroom or any other software, the you only get 8-bits of depth to work with. This means that the camera can render more smoothly and precise.

There is a way to get both and that is to shoot JPEG+RAW. You can use the JPEG to instantly get an image from each shutter-press and have the RAW in case you decide later that you would have liked different settings. This can be very useful since it actually takes time to change all the difference levels of sharpness, contrast, color, etc which can distract from shooting. Although the time is not saved, it is only postponed since you have to go that on the RAW later. Depending on your actual camera and software, some settings may be faster or slower to change in one or the other.