How should I meter film under red LED light to avoid washed-out skin tones?
Asked 1/22/2021
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I'm shooting film and metering with a Sekonic L-508 under continuous LED light bounced off the ceiling. In my shots, the subject's face looks blown or lacking detail even though I used the meter reading. Does red light affect metering differently from normal light? Is reflective or incident metering better in this situation, and would spot-metering a gray card help?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
5y ago
2 Answers
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Film have a different ISO for different light sources. Set your meter at the rated ISO for for the film you are using. Expose 1 fame as indicated by the meter. Now using manual aperture control, shoot what is called an "exposure series or bracketing". I suggest making a test in 1 f-stop increments. 4 then 3 then 2 f-stops under followed by 1 then 2 then 3 then 4 f-stops over. Chose the best frame and then reshoot in 1/3 f-stop increments. Make notes so you can identify the exposure setting for the frames. This way, you are computing the ISO setting for your specific set-up. This will be the ISO setting to use with your hand-held meter and that light source.
Originally by user44949. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user44949
5y ago
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Red light can make this tricky, but the meter may not be the only issue. Under strong red illumination, skin tones can appear lighter and lose tonal separation, especially with very diffuse bounced light. That can make the face look "blown" even when exposure is actually close.
With your Sekonic, incident metering using the white dome is usually the better choice here, because reflective/spot metering can be fooled by subject brightness and color. A gray card can help if you must use reflective metering, but incident metering is generally more reliable for unusual-colored light.
Also note that film can respond differently under different light sources, so the practical solution is to test. Meter at the film’s rated ISO, make one frame at the indicated exposure, then bracket several frames over and under. Review the results and use the exposure that gives the best negative for that specific film/light setup.
Finally, the "blown" look may also come from soft, shadowless lighting and focus falling behind the face, not just exposure.
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