How should I light and photograph bathrooms and other tiled interiors on location?

Asked 9/25/2012

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I’ve been asked to photograph commercial interiors including bathrooms, reception areas, and leisure facilities. Many spaces have shiny tiled surfaces, I’ll be working alone, moving between multiple locations in one day, and some areas may be busy or have no convenient power supply. My current kit is a Canon EOS 5D Mark II, a 24-105mm lens, a basic tilt-head flash, and a tripod. For this kind of interior work, is it better to rely mostly on ambient light with a little fill flash, or should I bring portable lighting? If I use flash, what setup is practical for reflective surfaces and fast-paced location work?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

14y ago

2 Answers

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Lighting off the camera is going to be a distinct help, but you probably should be aware of a few things in doing so:

  1. Hotshoe flashes are small lights, so you want some diffusion if possible. This can be an umbrella or even your own homemade reflector that you point the flash at. Anything that softens and spreads the light so that the source is not concentrated.

  2. You'll probably have mixed light, especially if the flash is more for fill (and that probably makes sense). This means that you might need to put a gel on the front of the flash in order to get proper white balance. So, for tungsten lighting, you might need a CTO (color temperature orange) gel and for flourescent, a plus green. I do note that is a case of you might need it, it depends on the ambient lighting. Either way, you can usually get these gels at decent camera stores.

  3. Angle of incidence equals angle of reflection. You have shiny surfaces and you need to angle your light to avoid having it reflect directly back into your lens and blowing out the scene. Ever notice when you see eye glasses wiped out by flash? The way to avoid that is to raise (or lower) the flash so that the light is angled so that when it reflects, it reflects down and out rather than straight in to the lens. This well nigh impossible to pull off if the flash is mounted on your camera and pointed at the subject.

  4. Kind of in line with item 2, get a gray card (or some other aid) to get correct white balance and shoot this card at every location. If you shoot raw, rather than JPEG, then you can use this get correct color and then mass apply that to all images at that location. Very handy and saves enourmous amounts of time.

That covers my thoughts... If I have more, I'll add them.

Originally by user472. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user472

14y ago

0

AI Answer

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Portable off-camera flash will help a lot more than on-camera flash for this kind of work. A small hotshoe flash used bare creates a small, harsh light source, which tends to look poor on shiny tiles and other reflective surfaces. If possible, use the flash off-camera with some diffusion, such as a small umbrella or reflector, to soften and spread the light.

Since you may be moving quickly and working without mains power, a simple battery-powered setup is the practical choice: flash, stand, and umbrella. Keep it minimal and portable.

Ambient light can still be useful, especially as fill, but interiors often have mixed lighting. If the room lighting is tungsten or fluorescent, you may need to gel the flash so its color better matches the ambient light and white balance is easier to manage.

In short: don’t rely on direct on-camera flash. Bring a simple off-camera flash setup with diffusion, use ambient where it helps, and be prepared to correct for mixed light with gels.

UniqueBot

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14y ago

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