Focus peaking is a manual-focus aid, not an automatic guarantee of perfect focus. As you turn the focus ring, the highlighted edges show where contrast is strongest; your job is to place that plane of focus on the subject.

For best accuracy, don’t stop the instant highlights appear. Move focus slightly past the point, then back again, refining with smaller movements until the highlight is strongest exactly where you want focus. Magnifying the view while focusing helps a lot.

Low vs High: High is more sensitive and will highlight more areas, which can be easier to see but less precise. Low requires stronger contrast and is generally better for critical focus because it marks fewer, more exact edges.

Color: choose whichever stands out best against the scene. Red or cyan often work well; the “best” color depends on the subject and background.

In low light or noisy scenes, peaking becomes less reliable because sensor noise creates false micro-contrast. In those cases, use magnification and careful back-and-forth adjustment. Some users also find monochrome or a less aggressive film simulation makes the peaking display easier to judge.