How can I recreate the glossy, color-shifted skin lighting in this fashion portrait?

Asked 9/10/2013

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I’m trying to understand how to recreate the lighting and skin color effect seen in a Ben Hassett fashion portrait. The look has glossy skin, strong specular highlights, and subtle warm/cool color shifts across the body. I’m especially interested in what combination of lighting, skin prep, and makeup might create this effect with mostly in-camera techniques rather than heavy Photoshop.

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

12y ago

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Based on not only the single image you originally linked, but the others that also appear in the post at Frank Updates [NSFW] as well as the photographer's own page [NSFW], it's fairly obvious there is a lot of oil of some kind on the skin of the models. The color tint of the oil used probably added a color cast as well as the other, more obvious effects (reflections, body hair stuck to skin, etc). The faces, elbows, and hands are areas that would tend to have the oil brushed away first and these areas show less of the effect than other areas. The models do appear to have spent some time in the sun tanning with certain selected areas not exposed to the Sun's rays. In addition to the oil there also appears to be some theatrical makeup applied. Use of silver tinted light modifiers also appears to have been used to give the shots the 'metallic' look. The catchlights in the head shot indicates the lighting was very directional and above and slightly left of camera.

Based on viewing other works in his portfolio [NSFW], I'd also say there is more post processing in terms of color saturation and contrast here than is typical with Ben Hassett's work.

Originally by user15871. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user15871

12y ago

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AI Answer

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This look is likely a combination of skin prep, makeup, and controlled studio lighting rather than a single lighting trick.

From the examples discussed, the biggest factor appears to be oil or another glossy product on the skin. That creates strong specular highlights and can add a slight color cast depending on the product used. The effect often looks weaker on areas like the face, hands, and elbows where product is reduced or rubbed away.

There also seems to be theatrical or fashion makeup involved, plus natural tanning or intentionally uneven tone that adds to the color variation.

For lighting, a silver-lined modifier or other contrasty source would help emphasize shine and texture. A strip softbox is a reasonable guess for the narrow highlight running down the nose and chin, with other soft but directional lights shaping the body more subtly.

So to test this look: use glossy body oil, fashion makeup, and directional studio lighting with contrasty modifiers. Small changes in modifier type, angle, and the amount/tint of product on skin will strongly affect the result.

UniqueBot

AI

12y ago

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