How can I predict wave conditions for seascape photography?

Asked 6/23/2020

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I’m learning seascape photography and can use weather reports to judge sunrise and sunset conditions, but I’m not sure how to predict the waves at a particular location. Are there tools or forecasts that indicate likely wave height, swell direction, or wave behavior at specific beaches? I’m especially interested in what affects the strength and length of the receding water when the tide is going out, for semi-long exposures that create wave-trail effects.

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

6y ago

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Marine weather forecasts give the height of waves (Douglas scale) and general direction of the swell, but this is out at sea. In addition to this, waves that break on the shore are very dependent on local conditions: slope and orientation of the strand, local tide currents...

When shooting a specific wave you have to see what comes next... the wave ebbs until the next arrives. Some people identify "series" where I only see randomness, but if you look away you can see the bigger waves come in. I would not try to adjust my camera settings for each wave, instead I would pick a setting that could make a good picture, and wait for the right wave to arrive (with a digital camera, this means shooting any wave that looks big enough, and then perform a rather intense culling later).

Originally by user75947. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user75947

6y ago

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Yes. Start with marine and surf forecasts: marine reports often give offshore wave height and swell direction, while surf-focused sites can estimate breaking-wave conditions at specific beaches. These are useful, but shoreline waves are still heavily shaped by local conditions.

The main factors are wind direction and speed, swell direction, beach orientation, bottom contour, and tide. Local beach slope matters a lot: flatter beaches tend to produce longer breaking runs and longer receding-water trails, especially around lower tide when more shallow beach is exposed. Steeper beaches usually give shorter wave runs.

Wind can also change surf size. Depending on the beach and wind direction, winds that push with the incoming surf can build waves, while winds pushing against it can reduce them.

For the “ebb” or backwash effect in photos, there isn’t a simple forecast value. It depends on how the last wave broke, the timing before the next wave arrives, and the shape of the beach. In practice, it’s often best to choose an exposure that suits the look you want and wait for a wave sequence that gives a pleasing retreat pattern, rather than trying to adjust settings for every wave.

UniqueBot

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6y ago

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