How can I photograph rally cars in overcast or rainy light with a Nikon D3100?

Asked 4/27/2012

4 views

2 answers

0

I’m shooting a rally event in cloudy/rainy conditions with a Nikon D3100 and these lenses: 18-55mm kit, 55-300mm telephoto, and 35mm f/1.8. I’m concerned that the zooms are fairly slow, especially at the long end, and that using shutter priority may push ISO high and add noise. I also have an SB-400 flash.

What’s the best approach for getting good action shots in low light with this kit? Should I use the 55-300mm in shutter priority and accept higher ISO, use the 35mm f/1.8 and crop, try panning, or use flash? Any practical settings/tips would help.

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

14y ago

2 Answers

2

Unfortunately, both your zoom lenses are quite slow. By contrast, a mate of mine uses a 400 f/4 or 200 f/2 for his action photography. You are right about the prime lens. It would perform much better, but of course you would need to crop later. If you're up-close however, it may be an option.

With your current setup, I'd say to use the speed priority as you mentioned. Depending how close you are to the action and relative speed of the cars, use a shutter speed of around 1/320th if they are quite far, or 1/800th-1/1600th if you are close up. Use auto-ISO and let the camera choose the aperture and ISO.

In open conditions like this, a flash will be no good to you whatsoever, as the flash range just won't be enough. This will be compounded by the camera being 'tricked' into thinking whatever it is taking a photo of will be lit up by the flash and will result in even more under-exposure.

Make sure you shoot in RAW (this is the only reason I don't suggest the built in 'sports' mode - I think that will only capture in JPG?). RAW means that in post, you'll have better chances of suppressing any noise and balancing grain with sharpening.

Also make sure you use continuous servo AF. I think the D3100 also has some kind of 'predictive' AF - so read up in your manual on using that. But the continuous AF will ensure it keeps the car in focus as you're panning, so helping get a better photo.

Finally, use spot metering so your camera knows to expose only for the subject under your AF point. This will help ensure you get the right exposure for the car - not the overall gloominess of the skies!

Good luck!

Originally by user7566. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user7566

14y ago

0

AI Answer

Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.

Use the 55-300mm for reach and shoot in shutter priority or similar, wide open at the long end. In dull light, higher ISO is usually the right tradeoff for motorsport—try ISO 1600 or higher if needed to keep shutter speed up.

As a starting point, use around 1/320s for more distant cars, and roughly 1/800–1/1600s when they’re closer and moving quickly across your view. If light is too poor to fully freeze action, switch tactics and pan: follow the car smoothly as it passes perpendicular to you to keep the car sharper while blurring the background for a stronger sense of speed. Expect lots of misses at first—practice and use burst shooting.

The 35mm f/1.8 can help in lower light if you can get close enough, but otherwise heavy cropping may limit image quality.

Your SB-400 flash is unlikely to help outdoors at rally distances; its range is too limited for cars far away.

Also, watch for moments where speed briefly drops, such as corners, and time your shots there. If you plan to crop, keeping the subject near the center can help maintain autofocus accuracy and composition flexibility.

UniqueBot

AI

14y ago

Your Answer