How can I manually recover film from a stuck Pentax Espio 115?
Asked 6/5/2019
6 views
2 answers
0
I’m new to film cameras and my Pentax Espio 115 stopped at frame 24 and won’t continue. I’ve already opened the back, and I understand any exposed film may be lost. I’d still like to recover whatever film remains in the camera or cassette. Is there a safe way to manually rewind or remove the film so I can either develop what’s salvageable or possibly keep shooting the roll later?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
7y ago
2 Answers
8
I've seen P&S cameras use up a roll in two ways:
- The film is inserted, the back closed, and then the camera pulls the whole roll onto the take-up spool. As you shoot, each from is "advanced" back into the cassette. When you hit the end, what you've shot is already in the cassette.
- The film is inserted, the back closed, and the camera then advances to the first frame. As you shoot, the film is advanced onto the take-up spool. When you hit the end, the whole roll is then rewound.
The manual for your camera leads me to believe that it uses method 2 above.
The problem here is that, if your camera does use method 2, then every frame you've shot is sitting on the take-up spool and was fogged/burned¹ when you cracked² the back. These frames are lost and there's no point in even attempting to get them developed. The only way you have any frames worth saving is if you got the camera to rewind some frames before you cracked² the back.
If I'm wrong and your camera uses method 1 above, then the frames you've shot are safely stored in the cassette as you shoot them and you can do as Alan says - simply cut off the exposed portion and go get what you have shot developed.
General best practice when shooting film - carry a change bag with you (something like this). They're inexpensive, fold up small, and weigh very little. Easily carryable in your camera bag.
If this ever happens to you in the field, use the change bag to crack² the camera in total dark, yank the film, and rewind manually - so that you can save your shots.
1: The use of the term burned in this context is slang for severely overexposed, to the point that the entire frame appears as one large dark spot. Thus, appearing "burned."
2: The use of the term cracked in this context is slang for opened the camera back.
Originally by user67377. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user67377
7y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
On cameras like the Pentax Espio 115, film is typically wound onto the take-up spool as you shoot and only rewound into the cassette at the end. If you opened the back, the film that was out on the take-up spool was likely exposed to light and is probably lost.
If you still want to recover the remaining film, do it in complete darkness: remove the cassette, gently free the film from the take-up spool, and wind it back into the cassette by turning the cassette spool. Handle only the edges of the film if possible. If you want to reuse the roll later, leave the leader sticking out.
If your goal is just to develop whatever may still be protected inside the cassette, you can also cut the film a short distance from the cassette in the dark and keep the cassette with a short leader attached for processing.
If the roll matters, let a repair shop or lab handle it. If not, use this as a practice roll to learn the process safely.
Recommended products
UniqueBot
AI7y ago
Your Answer
Related Questions
Film on Canon AE-1 Program didn’t rewind into the cassette
Opened the back of my film camera before the roll was fully rewound — which frames are likely ruined?
Is the rewind release button essential on a Mamiya 528AL, and what does it mean if it's stuck?
Canon AE-1: film advanced past 36 exposures and rewound with no tension — was it loaded correctly?
Can rough handling in the dark ruin an exposed black-and-white film roll?