How can I light wide-angle night scenes or dim ballrooms without dark backgrounds?
Asked 1/4/2011
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I shoot events with two Canon EOS 7D bodies, typically using a 10-22mm for wide shots and a 24-70mm or 70-200mm for tighter coverage. I also have a 580EX II and 430EX II. When shooting wide-angle scenes at outdoor night events or in poorly lit ballrooms, an on-camera flash with a wide panel or diffuser still leaves the far background dark. Bouncing can help indoors, but not always enough, and it does nothing outdoors.
I’ve also tried slow shutter speeds with rear-curtain sync so the ambient scene records while the flash freezes the foreground subject, but that introduces motion blur and camera shake.
What techniques work best for getting sharper, stop-motion event photos in large dark spaces while still showing the wider environment?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
15y ago
2 Answers
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This is plain physics here - the inverse square law. When it comes to large halls or areas, and using an on-camera flash, there is no way for lighting the distant objects as good as the foreground objects with just one light. You just have to use additional lighting sources - be it remotely controlled flashes, the lights of the room you are in, the street lights when outdoors or the moon/starts.
Needless to say that a tripod is required when using available light to light the distant objects. For short exposure times, I think your only option is the remotely controlled flashes located at strategic positions.
Originally by user1024. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user1024
15y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
A single on-camera flash can’t evenly light a large room or outdoor scene at wide angle—this is basically the inverse square law. The foreground will always get much more light than the distant background.
To brighten the whole scene, your best option is to add more light sources. Use multiple flashes placed around the room and trigger them remotely, ideally bounced or aimed to lift the ambient level and keep a more natural look. Outdoors, rely on available light in the environment as well, since one flash won’t light a large open space.
If you want the background to show with available light, use a slower shutter speed—but put the camera on a tripod. That removes camera shake and lets you extend exposure time so the ambient scene records more cleanly, while flash can still light nearby subjects.
So in practice: for short, sharp exposures in big dark spaces, use strategically placed off-camera flashes. For ambient-heavy shots, use slower shutter speeds on a tripod. There isn’t a single-flash solution that will fully light a distant ballroom or outdoor background evenly.
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