How can I avoid moiré and banding when photographing a large LED stage backdrop?

Asked 12/30/2016

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When I photograph a stage with a large LED video wall behind the performers, my Canon 5D Mark II (and also a Sony a6000) records visible lines/patterns in the LED screen that I cannot see with the naked eye. It happens with multiple lenses and focal lengths.

Typical settings are around 1/250–1/400 sec to freeze stage action, ISO 3200, and a wide aperture. Slowing the shutter to about 1/160 seems to reduce the problem, but that is often too slow for the performers. A shallow depth of field helps a little by blurring the background, but the pattern is still visible.

Oddly, an iPhone 7 Plus gives a solid-looking screen with no visible lines, while using flash on the DSLR also makes the LED wall look solid and freezes motion, even though flash is not appropriate during a show.

Is this moiré, LED refresh/banding, or both? What camera settings or techniques can reduce or eliminate the lines/patterns when shooting LED stage screens?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

9y ago

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There are probably at least two things going on here that are contributing to the artifacts you see in your photos:

  • Moire. When you take a picture of a regular pattern (like the rows and columns of a large LED display screen) the pattern you are photographing and the pattern on your camera's digital sensor can interfere with one another. It's like looking through two screen doors, one in front of the other, at the same time. The way the two patterns overlap when lined up creates the odd patterns we call moire.

Before you throw your DSLR away, be sure the pattern is showing up when you view your images at full resolution (i.e. at 100% where one screen pixel equals one pixel in the photo). Often moire can be caused by the scaling errors of reducing a high resolution image with repeating patterns in it to a lower resolution image for viewing. If you are viewing your 5D Mark II's 5616 x 3744 21MP images on the camera's 920K dot (just less than 1MP) rear LCD or on a typical computer monitor then the images are being scaled down significantly. Check a small area of the on-stage screen by pixel peeping it at 100% and see of the pattern is still there.

  • Flicker/Modulation. LEDs work by flickering on and off very rapidly. Large display screens that use LED lights control the perceived brightness of each color of each pixel by modulating how long each LED bulb is on and how long it is off. This modulation is done at a fairly high frequency, but when you are shooting at a shutter time that is faster/shorter than one complete cycle of the modulation you will catch the screen with some of the lights pulsed on for the entire exposure, some pulsed off for the entire exposure, and some that pulsed on or off while the shutter was open. This can also create strange patterns that look a lot like moire.

The solution to flicker/modulation, as you have discovered, is to lengthen the shutter time until it is slow enough to average out the on/off pulses of each LED bulb in the display on stage. Of course that also means your rapidly moving subjects are now blurry from their motion.

Moire, and to a lesser extent pulse width modulation, can be dealt with in postprocessing with varying degrees of success. Doing selective sharpening by using a brush to select and reduce the sharpening of the LCD display in the photo can help smooth it out. You can control the sharpening individually for each viewing size/resolution and create, optimize, and export different resolutions of the image for different display environments. This can also help to reduce moire caused by scaling errors.

With regard to the effect of using flash:

  • If the flash is being used in E-TTL mode with the camera in Av exposure mode or with Auto ISO selected the overall exposure of the ambient light might be getting reduced by the camera so that the influence of the light emitted by the LEDs in the screen is less in terms of the overall light in the photo.
  • Since the sync speed is 1/200 the shutter time is also longer than when shooting at 1/320 or 1/400 without the flash. The rest of the subjects onstage are being "frozen" by the short duration of the flash. But the LED screen on the stage is emitting its own light for the entire time the shutter is open.
  • The light from the flash may be getting into the screen and bouncing around inside and then reflecting back to the camera which would fill in the dark gaps between each bulb and smooth out the moire from the pattern of the screen's bulbs.

Originally by user15871. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user15871

9y ago

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AI Answer

Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.

It’s most likely a combination of moiré and LED refresh/banding.

Moiré happens when the LED wall’s regular pixel grid interferes with your camera sensor’s pixel grid. Banding can also appear because LED screens refresh/pulse faster than your eyes notice, but your shutter captures part of that cycle.

What can help:

  • Shoot slower shutter speeds if possible; you already found that around 1/160 reduces it.
  • Reduce screen sharpness in the image: use shallower depth of field, slightly defocus the backdrop, or use apertures where the lens is less critically sharp.
  • Check the image at 100% before judging; some moiré can be made worse by resizing/display scaling.
  • Changing resolution can help: a much higher- or lower-resolution capture can reduce moiré.
  • Flash can hide the issue because the brief flash burst dominates the exposure on the subjects and effectively freezes motion, but it’s not a practical show solution.

The iPhone may appear cleaner because its processing, lower effective detail, and computational imaging can suppress the pattern.

In practice, the best fixes are slower shutter speed, less sharp rendering of the LED wall, or changing capture resolution/camera.

UniqueBot

AI

9y ago

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