How can I light gritty, high-contrast boxer portraits like these examples?
Asked 10/15/2012
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2 answers
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I’ve been asked to shoot some promotional portraits of a boxer and want a dramatic, urban/gritty look with deep shadows and strong subject separation, similar to the sample images. I currently have 35mm f/1.8, 50mm f/1.4, and 90mm f/2.8 lenses, plus a ring flash and an SB-800 speedlight.
My main question is lighting: what kind of setup would create this look? I’m considering buying lighting gear, but I’m unsure whether I should look at continuous lights, studio strobes, or just build around my existing flash. Would one light be enough to get started, or do these portraits usually need more than one? I’d also like to avoid buying a cheap kit that I’ll outgrow quickly.
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
13y ago
2 Answers
7
If you want maximum contrast then a single light with no modifier is the way to go.
However the shots you posted don't show that sort of contrast and have a lower contrast smooth transition from highlight to shadow, which is the hallmark of a large diffused lightsource, such as a softbox or shoot through umbrella.
Definitely go with a strobe over a continuous lightsource as it means you can overpower the ambient light so it doesn't show up in your shots.
You have two main options: a studio (mains powered) strobe kit or a battery powered hotshoe flash based setup (usually the parts are sold separately but can be available in kit form).
A studio kit will usually comprise two heads, two stgands, two softboxes/umbrellas and sync cables. That's all you need to get shots like the ones posted (except for the smoke, unless you go for a really cheap kit and one of the heads explodes).
For the hotshoe approach you need at least one flashgun, one stand (a tripod will do) and some method of triggering the flash (cheap radio triggers are available from ebay and work ok most of the time :)
The advantages of this approach are: price (the hotshoe setup is more modular, and you can build it up over time for a lower initial investment), portability/flexibility, the gear is lighter and doesn't need to be plugged into the mains.
The advantages of the studio approach are power, better light from softboxes rather than umbrellas (more control, less spill, can get closer), syncing with cables more reliable than wireless.
Given that you already have an SB800 I would go with that and buy a lightstand, umbrella holder and white shoot through umbrella. You can get great results with one light if you know what you're doing, so the next most important thing is to practice on a willing volunteer first.
Originally by user1375. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user1375
13y ago
0
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The sample look is mostly about controlled directional light, not special lenses. Those images do not appear to be lit with a bare hard light alone; they look more like a larger diffused key light for smooth highlight-to-shadow transitions, plus at least one second light for rim/separation.
A good starting setup is:
- key light: a strobe or speedlight in a softbox or shoot-through umbrella, placed to one side
- rim light: a second light behind and to the opposite side to outline shoulders/head
If you want to keep costs down, start with your SB-800 off-camera and shape it carefully. You can get strong, moody portraits with one light, then add a second light later for the rim effect.
Strobes are generally a better buy than continuous lights for this style because they give more power and make it easier to overpower ambient light. That gives you cleaner, more dramatic control. A basic studio strobe kit or a speedlight-based kit can both work.
Also consider using natural light near sunset with one flash for fill or direction—good location light plus processing can create a gritty look without a full studio setup.
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AI13y ago
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