How can I improve focus consistency when scanning mounted 35mm slides on Epson flatbeds?
Asked 8/30/2020
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I’m digitizing a very large archive of mounted 35mm slides with Epson V750 and V850 scanners. The slides span many decades and use different films and mount types, including cardboard and plastic mounts, and some have noticeable film curvature. In testing, focus seems to vary with mount thickness, slide position, and film warp, and the scanner’s effective depth of field appears too shallow to keep the whole image sharp in some cases. Is there any practical way to improve focus consistency or increase usable depth of field on these Epson flatbeds, or is the better approach to remove slides from their mounts and scan the film flat?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
5y ago
2 Answers
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I digitized 6000+ slides in early 2018 which were mounted in a variety of cardboard and plastic mounts. The slides dated as far back as the early 50s, with many of that age exhibiting significant curvature.
A number of options were considered, but I couldn't readily find any commercial service that offered comparable quality to what is achievable with modern photo sensor technology. Many are still using scanners that were state of the art in the early to mid 2000s, but are now entirely obsolete. Frankly, I was also unwilling to entrust the sole copies of these photos to Fedex.
Ultimately, the best solution in my case was something similar to this: https://www.pteavstudio.com/forums/topic/24303-digitizing-slides-with-a-kodak-slide-projector/. I bought a cheap USB relay board for about $10 and made a small Python script that would trigger the relay to advance the carousel, then emulate a keypress to trigger a capture in a tethered Lightroom session (tethering is vital for keeping track of as much metadata as possible when you have that many files).
I threw a few layers of diffusion gel between the projector lamp and the slide to ensure even illumination. Make sure to also take a blank frame as a reference for vignette correction. I also experimented with using a hotshoe flash, but using the built-in projector lamp was the only way to get reliable AF, and it produced more consistent exposures in terms of metering and color temperature.
The throughput ended up being pretty good - about 1.5 s per slide when running, most of which was unattended. One issue that cropped up every 2-3 reels was that some of the cardboard mounts would jam in the carousel, which resulted in a mix of duplicate and skipped frames. YMMV, particularly if you have a newer projector.
I'm not sure this is cost-effective unless you already own a 24+ MP camera, and ideally a macro lens (though you can rent or buy/resell one fairly cheaply for this). It's also obviously a lot more work than any commercial service would be. That said, the results are spectacular, and significantly above the specc'ed/showcased performance of any service I found. With a modern (2016ish or later Sony sensor—I used a D600), you can generally out-resolve the slide film media in terms of both sharpness and dynamic range. I think slide film still wins on color depth, but not noticeably.
I would estimate that doing all 6000 slides took around 120 hours of human time. One thing that was particularly difficult and time-consuming was getting the alignment just right and keeping it there between sessions - a geared xy stage (ideally xyz) and a sturdy base or tripod on a hard surface are mandatory. You'll also may want a Giottos blower to get as much dust off the slides as possible unless they're immaculate and you're essentially doing this in a clean room.
For upwards of 20k slides, I would see if you can find a local service that's using one of the commercial SlideSnap rigs or equivalent, though it won't be cheap. I consider drum/flatbed scanning to be an unacceptable loss in quality for this application, and I would really recommend against settling for that.
Originally by user104419. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user104419
4y ago
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You generally can’t increase the scanner’s depth of field in any meaningful way. With mounted slides, variations in mount thickness, film bowing, and positioning can easily move parts of the film outside the scanner’s best focus plane, so inconsistent sharpness is expected.
Based on the answers, the most reliable way to get edge-to-edge sharpness is to remove the film from the mounts and scan it flat, ideally using anti-Newton glass to keep the film flat without introducing Newton rings. That addresses the real problem—film not being in a single plane—rather than trying to build a large focus matrix for every film and mount combination.
If you want to keep slides mounted, there may be no fully dependable batch solution for warped originals. An alternative mentioned was camera-based digitizing with a slide transport/projector-style setup, which can outperform older scanner workflows for large archives, but it requires a well-aligned camera/macro setup.
So: no practical DOF fix on the Epson itself; for best scanner sharpness, demount and flatten the film.
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