How can I fake believable window light from an opaque decorative window in an interior photo?
Asked 5/11/2015
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2 answers
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I want to photograph an interior that has a decorative "fake window"—essentially an opaque poster or print of an outdoor scene—and make it look like real light is coming through it. My first idea was to shoot two exposures: one with the fake window exposed a bit bright, and another with the window covered so I can light the room from that direction with speedlights, then composite the images in Photoshop. Is that a practical approach, or is there a simpler way to create convincing window-like light from a fake window?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
11y ago
2 Answers
1
You are in trouble if the fake window is simulating a backlight... If your subject is in front of this background.
If you want to use them as lateral difuse light, you could take a shoot of the window. Remove it and take a shoot of the subject using a softbox.
I do not like the idea of the bounced flash but could work. This will depend on the distance you have to your subject.
If you do not want to assamble them in post pro, you need to construct a wooden frame, mounting your background and make the actual holes on the windows. Put a trace paper on them.
But if you want to fake direct light you need quite some space to make your flash light look paralel.
Originally by user37321. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user37321
10y ago
0
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Yes, your two-shot composite can work, but the easiest believable result is usually to create a real large, diffused light source where the window is.
The key is that window light is broad and soft. Instead of aiming bare speedlights at the fake window, use a large diffused source behind or in place of the window area if possible. Community suggestions included building a frame with actual openings and tracing paper, or using a vertical panel of fluorescent tubes behind diffusion to mimic window light.
A bounced flash may work for soft side light, but it depends on distance and space. If you want the light to look directional, you need enough room so the light rays appear more parallel; otherwise it can look obviously artificial.
If the fake window is meant to act as strong backlight behind a subject, it becomes much harder to make convincing in-camera, and compositing separate shots may still be the most practical option.
So: for the most natural look, use a large diffused source shaped like a window; for difficult backlit scenes, expect to composite.
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