Do these exposure problems indicate a sticking second shutter curtain?
Asked 4/17/2021
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2 answers
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My Olympus E-520 is giving inconsistent exposures, especially at faster shutter speeds. In shutter-priority mode, changing from around 1/160s up to 1/4000s sometimes doesn’t reduce exposure as expected. In burst shooting, I may get one frame that is completely overexposed, the next with a bright band along one edge, and later frames that look normal. The bright band changes position when I rotate the camera, which suggests it follows the sensor/shutter orientation rather than the scene. Does this point to a sticking second shutter curtain, and is there anything practical to try before replacing the camera?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
5y ago
2 Answers
3
The symptoms would indicate a sticking second curtain (if the shutter travels from top to bottom across the sensor).
The symptoms also seem to indicate that it works itself free... i.e. first image second curtain stuck for a long time affecting entire image, second image the second curtain stuck for a moment affecting only bottom edge of image, third image it didn't stick notably.
Edit: second/third series of images confirm sticking second shutter IMO (banding rotates along with image orientation).
Originally by user70370. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user70370
5y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
Yes — those symptoms are consistent with a sticking second shutter curtain. A shutter that doesn’t close on time can leave the whole frame overexposed, or create a bright strip along one edge if it begins closing late and then frees up partway through the exposure. The fact that the band rotates with camera orientation supports this being a shutter issue rather than a metering or scene problem.
The burst sequence also fits: first frame badly affected, next frame partially affected, then later frames normal as the curtain works itself loose.
This is generally a mechanical fault, not a flash-sync setting problem. There usually isn’t a reliable user fix beyond basic checks like making sure no flash-related settings are active and confirming the issue persists across modes. If it keeps happening, the practical remedy is shutter service or replacement — and on an older body, replacement of the camera may be more realistic than repair.
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