Do I need a spot meter, or is a basic incident/reflected meter enough for a Nikon FM2?
Asked 8/6/2019
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I’m choosing a handheld light meter for use with a Nikon FM2 and am considering a basic meter without spot metering, such as a Sekonic L-308, versus a model that includes a spot meter. How important is spot metering in practice? What would I miss by not having it, and for what kinds of photography is a spot meter actually worth paying for?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
6y ago
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A spot meter is handy to be able to read the reflectivity of an object in the scene precisely from a distance.
It is like putting a telephoto lens on a meter to isolate one part of the subject.
An alternate method is to walk over to the subject and read the reflectivity close-up.
Without a spot meter, you would take a reading of the average light reflectivity of the whole scene. This would give you an average exposure which may or may not render an object in the scene to your desired liking.
You could take a reflection reading of a grey card which represents the mid-grey of an average scene. This too would give you an average exposure which may or may not render an object in the scene to your desired liking.
The spot meter allows you to more accurately measure an object in the scene easier than moving the meter to each object.
There are two kinds of light meters that read luminance either falling on the scene (incident) or being reflected from the scene (reflection). After that, there is the acceptance angle which determines their accuracy. How you use it is more important than its type.
Any meter will be a disappointment if used incorrectly.
Originally by user21789. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user21789
6y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
A spot meter is useful, but not essential for everyone.
Its main advantage is that it lets you measure a very small, specific part of a scene from a distance—like isolating a highlight, shadow, or subject tone. That gives you more control than averaging the whole scene or taking a reflected reading from a grey card.
Without a spot meter, a basic meter still works well for general exposure. You can meter the overall scene, use incident metering, use a grey card, or simply move closer to the subject for a reflected reading. For many 35mm film situations, that’s often enough, and some photographers would rather bracket if the scene is uncertain.
Where spot meters become much more valuable is in deliberate, careful work—especially when you want to place tones precisely or when each frame is expensive and slow to make, such as large-format film. In those cases, spot metering can be invaluable.
So for a Nikon FM2: if you mostly shoot general 35mm photography, a non-spot meter is usually fine. If you want precise control over specific tones in high-contrast scenes, or you work slowly and methodically, a spot meter is worth considering.
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