Can I use a DSLR to preview exposure for a Nikon F3 film shot?
Asked 12/7/2013
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I shoot film with a Nikon F3 but would like the instant feedback of digital for static subjects. I'm considering using a DSLR to check framing and exposure, then taking the final image on film. If I match the DSLR ISO to the film speed, will the same shutter speed and aperture generally transfer to the film camera, or are there differences I should account for?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
12y ago
2 Answers
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Apparently no one has mentioned the reciprocity error (Schwarzschild effect) when measuring for film, and it's probably the only things OP should be concerned about.
You see, the response of the digital sensors was designed from the film response in the 1/10000 - 1" range, which was applied lineally to the rest of the range.
In digital, to get an extra stop you just multiply your exposure time by two, and that is true for any given range (the maximum most cameras work with is 30", but this rule applies for longer ones). The response is linear.
But in film this 'linear' approach only works as an approximation in a very small range (The previously mentioned 1/10000 - 1"). The response is NOT linear AT ALL, and it depends a lot on the film you are using (Refer to the datasheets for more information). Let me explain this with a handy chart you will be using a lot (It was taken down from flickr but I treasure a copy in all of my thumb drives just in case):

As you can see, once you pass the 1 second mark, things get wild. If you measure something with your digital camera and decide that 10" is OK, it will be OK in digital. In fact it will probably look OK in any digital camera you get your hands on.
If you try to take that photo on film with the same parameters, it will look... Well, very bad. If, for example, you are shooting Tri-X (Why would you shoot with any other thing?), you need to add 2+1/3 stops to that time to get the same exposure. That is, 10"*2*2 (40 seconds) +1/3, which total around 50 seconds.
You can see how different the times can be for not-so-long exposures. I'm not going to go through why this happens, you have plenty of info on that pretty much everywhere (Any serious book on film will cover it, I always recommend the Ansel Adams trilogy for anything film-related).
The same thing happens when you shoot faster than 1/10000. The film does not behave in a linear manner and you should correct for this effect.
Other than that, measuring for film is the same as measuring for digital, and you get the same effects modifying the same parameters (Depth of field, motion blur, etc), with the only exception that you get more grain instead of digital noise when pushing film or shooting with sensible emulsions.
Originally by user24295. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user24295
12y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
Yes—generally, if you set the DSLR to the same ISO as the film, the same shutter speed and aperture should be very close for normal exposures. ISO is defined similarly for film and digital, so using a DSLR as a preview meter for static scenes is a practical approach.
A few things can cause small differences:
- ISO ratings are not exact; there can be slight tolerance differences between film and digital.
- Different lenses may transmit slightly different amounts of light. Exposure is really about T-stops, not just marked f-stops.
- Film behaves differently from digital at long exposures. Reciprocity failure means film may need more exposure than a simple doubling rule predicts, depending on the film stock.
So for typical shutter speeds, this should work well as a guide. For long exposures, check the film datasheet and don’t assume the DSLR’s exposure translates perfectly. A DSLR can also help with composition, shadows, and histogram review, much like photographers once used Polaroids to preview medium-format shots.
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