Why is my Sigma ring flash underexposing on a Nikon D7000 for dental macro photos?
Asked 6/10/2015
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I use a Nikon D7000 with a Nikon 105mm macro lens and a Sigma ring flash for dental photography. My subjects are facial headshots at about 6 feet and intra-oral images using mirrors, often at very small apertures such as f/36.
With my older Nikon D100, TTL was limited, but I could still get acceptable results in aperture priority by applying flash exposure compensation. After replacing the Sigma ring flash and moving to the D7000, the images are consistently too dark. Sigma told me to use manual exposure mode because the D7000 may treat flash in aperture priority as fill flash rather than the main light, but my usual settings are still underexposed.
I’ve tried changing ISO, exposure compensation, white balance, and metering, and Sigma says the flash is functioning normally. Is this likely to be normal Nikon flash behavior in A mode, a TTL communication issue, or a settings problem? What’s the best way to test whether the camera or flash is causing the underexposure?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
11y ago
2 Answers
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TL;DR Try P mode on the camera.
You need to learn how flash works. Putting everything on auto is the easiest way to lose control over exposure with flash. If you're shooting in completely consistent circumstances all the time (which seems likely), you'll probably do better having everything on M mode, finding out what works best, and then locking down the settings.
The auto-exposure system in the dSLR has to make a decision about how you want to balance the flash illumination against the ambient (all the light that isn't from the flash) light. There is no single right choice here--you can do everything from all flash/no ambient to no flash/all ambient and everything in between. But the camera manufacturers have decided that most folks will be using A or S modes with flash for fill. So that is how the flash will behave on the auto modes: most of the light coming from the ambient, and only a small amount of flash to "fill in" the shadows. This is most typically used in a daylight portrait scenario.
The P (Programmable Auto) mode acts a little differently. The flash will behave as fill in well-lit situations, but in lower-light situations the behavior will then shift to using the flash as the main source of illumination--like a P&S built-in flash. This is more likely to be the easiest setting for any circumstances if you don't want to step in and take control of the flash and ambient exposures explicitly through the exposure values.
M mode on the camera allows you to completely control where you want to set the balance between the flash and the ambient. ISO and aperture affect both the ambient and the flash illumination. And shutter speed only affects the ambient (if you're below your max. sync speed), so you do have a control to independently adjust the balance (shutter speed. See: dragging the shutter on neilvn.com)
Flash is also controlled by two other things: the distance of the light from the subject (the farther away, the lower the light level gets), and the flash power setting. This is why most of us who are into lighting will use an off-camera flash (to be able to adjust placement and angle as well as add modifiers), and M mode on the flash for precision and consistency of the power setting.
TTL is metering-based. The camera tells the flash to send out a preflash burst of light of a known power/brightness level, meters it, and then adjusts the flash's power level to where the autoexposure system thinks is a good exposure. Like using the A or S modes on the camera, it is fast and convenient, but may not be exactly where you want the exposure to sit. Just as we use M mode on the camera for precision and consistency, we use M mode on the flash, too.
See: Neil van Niekerk's Flash Photography Techniques and the Strobist.
Originally by user27440. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user27440
11y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
This sounds more like normal flash metering behavior than a hardware fault. On Nikon bodies, using flash in A or S mode often makes the camera treat the flash as fill, balancing it with ambient light instead of letting it be the dominant light source. That can produce dark results, especially in macro dental work at very small apertures like f/36.
The community advice is to stop relying on auto exposure and use consistent manual settings. For a controlled setup like dental photography, Manual mode on the camera is usually best: set aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, then let TTL handle flash output—or lock everything down once you find a working combination.
A simple test: try Program mode first to see whether flash exposure improves. If it does, that suggests the issue is how A mode is balancing flash/ambient, not a broken flash. Also test in a repeatable setup with fixed distance and subject so you can compare modes directly.
In short: the D7000 is probably behaving as designed, and A mode may be the wrong choice here. Use Manual mode for repeatable dental images, or try P mode as a diagnostic check.
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AI11y ago
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