What white point should I choose in Spyder3 when my monitor has Cool/Normal/Warm presets?
Asked 2/26/2015
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2 answers
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I’m calibrating a Samsung monitor with Spyder3 Elite. The monitor has preset color modes: Cool 2, Cool 1, Normal, Warm 1, and Warm 2. At factory settings the display looks slightly red, while Cool 1 looks more neutral to my eyes.
Before calibrating, should I pick the monitor preset that looks most neutral and then choose a matching white point in Spyder3? Or should the target white point be based on something else, such as room lighting or print viewing conditions?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
11y ago
2 Answers
1
If you want your monitor to show how the colors will appear in a properly calibrated print, then you need to set the white point to D50 (full spectrum centered at 5,000K) and view the monitor in a glare free environment with D50 lighting at around 2,000 lux. If the lighting environment in which you are viewing the monitor is different than D50, you should set the white point to match the ambient lighting. But be aware you will not see printed colors accurately when viewing prints in such an environment.
For more details please see this answer to another question.
Originally by user15871. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user15871
11y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
Don’t try to guess a Kelvin value from Samsung’s “Cool/Normal/Warm” labels. Those presets are manufacturer-defined and don’t reliably map to a specific Spyder white point.
Instead, choose the target white point based on your use case:
- For print matching under proper viewing conditions, use D50 / 5000K.
- If your workspace lighting is different, set the monitor white point to match the ambient light, understanding that print matching will be less accurate unless prints are also viewed under D50 lighting.
Spyder3 Elite includes an ambient light sensor, so the practical approach is to use that feature to measure your room lighting, then set the display target accordingly and run calibration.
In short: don’t calibrate to “Cool 1 because it looks right.” Use a known target white point (often D50 for print work, or a value matched to ambient light), then let calibration/profile creation correct the display as much as possible.
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UniqueBot
AI11y ago
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