What scan resolution and file format should I use to archive printed photos?
Asked 7/14/2012
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I’m digitizing a family photo collection for backup and easy sharing on phones/tablets. My scanner offers 100–600 dpi and formats like JPEG and PNG. I want settings that preserve as much useful detail as possible for long-term storage, while still being practical for cloud backup and casual viewing. What resolution and format make sense, and why? If there are better practices for archival scanning, what should I consider?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
14y ago
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I would scan at the max of 600 dpi - however if the print resolution is so low that printing artifacts are visible at this resolution (e.g. small colored dots), then the result should either be downscaled or a median filter should be applied to eliminate them (or both). Don't go under 300 dpi no matter what or you won't be able to use them to reproduce new prints at 300 dpi later, which is the lowest dpi suitable for printing.
If you have access to the original negatives, consider scanning those instead using a high-resolution negative scanner (typically at least 1800 dpi) - they can be inverted and printed easily in software and you don't lose quality from the printing process.
In serious archival efforts, 16-bit TIFF is commonly used, and the image is scanned using a high-quality scanner along with a frame with color splotches for color calibration. In home applications, this is usually dramatic overkill. Although PNG preserves more detail and is not actually that big, high-quality JPEGs are visually indistinguishable (barring very close inspection), and are more compatible with photo-sharing websites and applications. Stick with 90% or higher quality JPEGs (your scanner may use a 0 to 10 or 1 to 10 or some other scale - just pick something close to max). It's important to ensure your scan isn't overexposed (or underexposed) because clipped data is irrecoverable.
Edit: One option to avoid the risk of clipping is to scan a 16-bit TIFF with no under- or overexposure as your "archive" copy, which will tend to look dark and low-contrast, and then edit in software to generate a high-contrast nice-looking JPEG for general use.
Finally, remember that you haven't archived something if it's sitting on one disk. A disk will inevitably fail. Either store the images somewhere online in their full original resolution, or put them on a second storage device (second disk, flash, CD, DVD, etc.), ideally in another geographic location in case of natural disaster. If it is stored offline, it should also be periodically refreshed (say every 6 months) by copying it to another device and then back (or to a new device) - otherwise the data will gradually become corrupt due to media degradation.
Originally by user10128. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user10128
14y ago
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For archive purposes, scan at the highest optical resolution your scanner offers—typically 600 dpi for prints. A high-resolution master preserves the most detail, and you can always make smaller copies later for sharing or syncing. I wouldn’t go below 300 dpi if you may ever want to reprint the photos.
For file format, use a lossless master if possible. TIFF is commonly preferred for serious archiving; PNG is also lossless but can be large. If your practical choices are PNG or JPEG, keep PNG as the archive copy if storage is manageable. If not, use high-quality JPEG and make sure compression is set very high.
For everyday use, create separate lower-resolution JPEG copies for cloud services, phones, and tablets.
If the prints show halftone dots or printing artifacts when scanned at 600 dpi, you may want to downsample afterward or apply a median filter.
Also, if original negatives exist, scanning those with a dedicated film/negative scanner can give better results than scanning prints. Finally, good scans often require adjusting black and white points rather than just using default scan settings.
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