What camera settings work for photographing the aurora with a 17-40mm f/4 lens?
Asked 1/27/2012
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I want to photograph the aurora borealis with a Canon 60D and a Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L. Most night-sky advice assumes a faster lens, but my widest option is only f/4. I’d like to keep noise reasonable and avoid obvious star trailing if possible. What manual settings are a good starting point for aurora shots with this setup, and how should I adjust for brighter or faster-moving aurora?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
14y ago
2 Answers
5
I could make an educated guess..
Consider this picture, its EXIF data says exposed for 5 sec @ f2.8 at ISO 1600, ignoring the focal length and considering that you said most articles recommend shooting @ ISO 800 using max aperture (in your case f4) you should set your exposure for 20 seconds.
@ISO 400, shutter speed needs to be 40sec
@ISO 200, shutter speed needs to be 80sec
@ISO 100, shutter speed needs to be 160 seconds
but longer shutter speed might cause star trails.
Then again you can set the ISO to 3200 to reduce the shutter speed to 5 seconds.
Assuming the brightness of the Aurora Borealis is the same as in this picture.
I also suggest turning on the custom fuction on the 60D for high ISO noise reduction and Long Exposure noise reduction.
Originally by user6212. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user6212
14y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
Use manual exposure, shoot wide open at f/4 as a starting point, and record RAW. A good baseline with your 17-40mm on a 60D is about 5–10 seconds at ISO 1600 for a moderate, fairly static aurora. If the display is faint, you may need 20–30 seconds and a lower ISO such as around 640–800, but longer exposures risk both star trailing and smearing the aurora’s motion. If the aurora is bright and moving quickly, shorten the shutter as much as possible and raise ISO—ISO 1600 to 3200 may be necessary.
In practice, aurora settings depend heavily on brightness and speed, so adjust ISO to get the shortest shutter that still gives good exposure. For a mostly static green arc, longer exposures can work; for active, waving lights, 30 seconds is usually too long. High activity is difficult with an f/4 lens, and very short exposures are easier with a faster lens. A tripod is essential. Long-exposure noise reduction and high-ISO noise reduction on the 60D may help, but shooting RAW gives you the most flexibility.
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