What aperture gives the best sharpness with a Zeiss Jena Pancolar MC 50mm, especially at the edges?
Asked 3/1/2018
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I’m planning to use a Zeiss Jena Pancolar MC 50mm on film SLRs and occasionally on an APS-C mirrorless body. I’d like to get the sharpest possible results, especially for landscapes, buildings, and industrial scenes where edge sharpness matters. I understand that center sharpness is usually strongest, but I’m unsure how this lens behaves across the frame at different apertures. Are there general settings or practical tips for getting the best sharpness from this lens, particularly in lower light?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
8y ago
2 Answers
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As a rule-of-thumb, the sweet spot for maximum sharpness is about 2 f-stops stopped down from the lens's maximum. At wide-open, a lens is usually slightly degraded because the peripheral figure (shape of the curve) is quite steep -- thus image-forming rays originating there are more likely to go astray. As you stop down, the figure is more gentle. However, as you stop down, the twin plagues of diffraction and interference begin to take a toll on acuity.
Originally by user44949. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user44949
8y ago
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A good rule of thumb is that maximum sharpness usually comes about 2 stops down from wide open; for this lens, one answer cited testing that showed its sharpest result around f/5.6. Wide open, edge sharpness often drops because aberrations are stronger toward the outer parts of the lens. Stopping down improves center and edge performance, but if you stop down too far, diffraction starts to reduce acuity again.
So for best overall sharpness, especially across the frame, try roughly f/4 to f/5.6 first, and avoid shooting wide open unless you need the speed or look. In dim light, longer exposures or a tripod can help more than opening up fully if edge sharpness is important.
Because this is an older lens, also watch for flare and lowered contrast. Use a lens hood when helpful, and be extra careful with strong off-axis light sources. If adapting it to APS-C digital, a hood suited to the narrower field of view may help, as long as it doesn’t vignette.
In short: stop down a bit, use a hood, and test your own copy to learn its sweet spot.
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