Should you use negative exposure compensation on an overcast day to preserve the cloudy mood?
Asked 12/1/2013
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Cameras meter reflected light toward a middle tone, so bright scenes like snow often need positive exposure compensation and very dark scenes may need negative compensation. For overcast conditions, many tips suggest adding +1/3 to +1 EV, usually when bright cloud or sky in the frame can fool the meter. But if the scene itself does not include unusually bright elements, should you instead use negative exposure compensation so the image feels like a cloudy day rather than being rendered too bright?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
12y ago
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At the end of the day you are the photographer and your photo is an expression of your vision. If you prefer the final image under or overexposed, then that is your choice. As long as you are not a photojournalist, then you are an artist -- do what makes you happy. Journalists should play by stricter rules and should not turn day into night or vice versa, everyone else go forth and have fun.
Guidelines are just that guidelines, they help people who are new, and can and should be ignored by people as they learn more and want to experiment.
All of this having been said, you may find that getting a good (as defined by your histogram) exposure in camera, and then darkening it in post, will provide richer shadows, as more information is available in the captured frame.
Originally by user20982. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user20982
12y ago
0
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Usually, no. Exposure compensation is mainly for correcting the meter, not for forcing mood. If the scene contains bright sky or other tones that bias reflected metering, then compensation may help. But for a normal overcast scene without unusually bright elements, the camera’s metered exposure is generally the technically correct starting point.
If you want the final image to feel darker or moodier, it’s often better to capture a solid exposure first and then darken in post. That preserves more shadow information and better signal-to-noise than intentionally underexposing in-camera. Negative compensation is most useful if the metered exposure would actually risk clipping highlights or force too slow a shutter speed.
If your goal is an out-of-camera look, then dialing negative compensation for artistic effect is perfectly reasonable. Just recognize that this is a creative choice, not a universal rule for cloudy days. Also remember that reflected TTL metering can be misled by scene brightness; an incident meter avoids much of that issue.
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