You generally do not want “no white balance.” A camera sensor’s RGB values are not directly a photometrically correct representation of the scene, so some color transformation is always needed.

For the most accurate result, use a known neutral reference in the scene: a grey card at minimum, or better, a color target such as a ColorChecker. Shoot it in the same light as the cubemap, then use that shot to set white balance and, if available, build or apply a camera color profile.

White balance is about mapping neutral objects in the scene to neutral output under the scene’s illumination. Without that step, the image will usually not look more “real”; it will often just reflect the sensor’s biases.

Also, accurate viewing depends on the display side: the monitors should be calibrated to a known white point and color behavior. If the display is not calibrated, even a well-processed image will not reproduce faithfully.

So the practical workflow is:

1. Shoot RAW.
2. Include a grey card or color chart in the same lighting.
3. Set WB from that reference.
4. Use a neutral/camera profile if available.
5. View on calibrated displays.

That is the best path to scene-faithful color for immersive display.