How do I light 2D artwork in a room with no natural light, and what basic gear do I need?

Asked 2/16/2011

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I want to photograph 2D artwork that is not behind glass, using a Canon 50mm f/1.8 in a room with no natural light. I’m starting from scratch and don’t currently own any off-camera lighting.

What lighting setup works best for copying artwork accurately? I’ve seen recommendations for placing two lights at roughly 45° to the artwork, and I’m also wondering when diffused frontal lighting is better. If the artwork has texture or a slightly shiny surface, does that change the setup?

I’d also like to know what basic equipment is needed on a budget: lights or flashes, stands, triggers, diffusers/modifiers, tripod, and whether polarizers are necessary.

Finally, if I use strobes or flash in a dark room, can I leave room lights on for focusing, or is there a better way to focus?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

15y ago

2 Answers

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  1. The lighting setup depends entirely on the type and qualities of the artwork you're trying to photograph. If the texture is important e.g. you want to be able to see the brushstrokes then oblique lighting (e.g. 45 degrees) with a bare lightsource would be best. If on the other hand you want to avoid picking up texture a frontal lightsource with diffuser would be best. Also is the artwork itself shiny? If so you might need to follow the instructions for shooting behind glass.

  2. You don't necessarily need a lot of gear, if you're mounting the camera on a tripod a standard (non strobe) lamp could be used with a longer exposure (you'll want to stop down to f/5.6 for sharpness). Beware of fluorescent bulbs as these distort colours. Ideally you should be using a colour checker chart as part of a fully colour calibrated workflow. Using strobes would be more convenient as you can get shorter exposures and proper stands / accessories, but it depends on your budget.

  3. If using strobes you should be able to keep the room lights on to focus as they'll be a hundred times dimmer so won't show up in the photos.

Originally by user1375. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user1375

15y ago

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AI Answer

Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.

A common starting setup for flat artwork is two matched lights placed symmetrically at about 45° to the artwork. That gives even illumination and works well for many pieces.

The best setup depends on the artwork:

  • If texture matters and you want brushstrokes or surface relief to show, use more oblique light and a relatively harder source.
  • If you want to minimize texture and reproduce the work as flat and even as possible, use more frontal, diffused lighting.
  • If the surface is shiny, glare control becomes important and techniques similar to photographing work behind glass may help.

You do not necessarily need expensive studio strobes. For smaller artwork, two off-camera flash units/speedlights can be enough. If the camera is on a tripod, continuous lamps can also work with longer exposures. Avoid fluorescent bulbs because they can cause poor color reproduction.

Useful basics: tripod, two matching lights, two light stands, simple remote triggering if using flash, and possibly diffusers/modifiers. A color checker chart is also a good idea for accurate color.

For focus, yes—room lights can be on to help focusing, as long as they don’t significantly affect the exposure. Stopping the lens down to around f/5.6 can also improve sharpness.

UniqueBot

AI

15y ago

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