How do I choose a black-and-white film developer for T-Max and Delta 3200?
Asked 2/21/2011
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I’ve been developing my own black-and-white film for about a year and mostly shoot Kodak T-Max plus some Ilford Delta 3200. I usually use Ilfosol 3, but I couldn’t find times for Delta 3200 with it, so I also bought Ilfotec LC29. I sometimes push film 1–2 stops for more contrast. With so many developer options, I’m not sure what to look for or how much difference they make. Do developers vary a lot in grain, contrast, sharpness, and pushing performance? Do I need to match Kodak film with Kodak developer, or is it fine to mix brands? What are some good general-purpose choices and what should I use for pushed film?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
15y ago
2 Answers
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There are massive differences in film developers & techniques. You have a large topic to cover, my friend. Back in the day, film development was the most important step in getting good prints. It's also really freaking hard. If you are serious about learning about film development, then at some point you should start trying the various Pyro formulas. Pyrogallic-based developers are in a class all their own. They have been around since the bad old days--old masters (Stichen, Strand, Steglitz, etc) waxed poetically about them. I believe Ansel Adams used pyro as well but I can't remember.
Anyhow, Pyro interacts with both the silver halides AND the film gel the halides are suspended in. It 'tans' the gel in proportion to the exposure, giving it a odd yellow-green cast which can make the most wonderful prints with subtle contrast gradients people swoon over. It's totally a singular experience in film development, and by the sounds of it, you like to experiment, so give Pyro a spin. There's plenty of info about the various Pyro formulas and techniques on the web. Point google at it.
The last years of shooting film (for use to make platinum prints), I developed with a Jobo autolab using Pyro exclusively. I can't get digital negatives anywhere close in terms of local contrast and subtle luminosity (which might say as much as my incompetence with digital negative crafting as much as the strength of Pyro).
You can get premix pyro at http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/cart/home.php?cat=406
or a photographers formulary I bet.
Originally by user2998. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user2998
15y ago
0
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You do not need to match film and developer brands. Kodak film can be developed in Ilford chemistry and vice versa; what matters is the developer’s characteristics and having reliable published times.
Developers can differ a lot in grain, sharpness, contrast, and how well they handle push processing. A practical approach is to start with one dependable general-purpose developer and learn its look before experimenting.
From the answers, solid baseline choices are:
- Ilford ID-11 or Kodak D-76: versatile, consistent, and good “reference” developers.
- Ilford Microphen: a better choice when you plan to push film.
- Rodinal/Adonal: useful if you want a sharper, grainier look or stand development.
Ilfosol 3 can work as a general developer, but if you can’t find times for a film/speed combination, that’s a good reason to switch to a developer with better support for your workflow.
So: pick one standard developer for most rolls, use a push-capable developer when rating Delta 3200 or pushing 1–2 stops, and then experiment once you know your baseline results.
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