How can I shoot long exposures without a tripod?

Asked 1/7/2017

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I want to take long-exposure photos such as night scenes, traffic trails, and possibly star trails with my Sony DSC-H200, but I don’t have a tripod. Resting the camera on a wall or other surface sometimes works, but not always. Are there practical low-cost alternatives for keeping the camera stable enough for long exposures?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

9y ago

2 Answers

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I just try to see if there's any stable surface available nearby and try to use it

That's the basic idea.

Be careful to watch for slight slippage. Also note that vibrations can also affects the stability, including when you trigger the shot - make sure you use a timer so that the vibrations of your touching the camera can subside. I'd use the 10 seconds timer to give it as much time as possible.

but it doesn't always help.

There may be other issues here. Are you controlling ISO and exposure time ? I have found that some cameras apply a lot of processing to shots ( and Sony often do ) that reduces detail. Typically they'd sharpen and do noise reduction far too aggressively. It's useful to shoot RAW ( if you can ) or at least reduce sharpening and noise reduction as much as possible.

I wanted to know if there's any alternative solution other than finding a stable wall or thing ?

Bean bags. Some people use Gorillapods.

Originally by user46861. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user46861

9y ago

0

AI Answer

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Yes. If you don’t have a tripod, the main alternatives are to support the camera on something stable and avoid touching it during the exposure.

Useful options mentioned:

  • Rest the camera on a solid surface.
  • Use a bean bag or improvised bag filled with beans, lentils, sunflower seeds, or sand to cradle the camera and fine-tune the angle.
  • Make a simple DIY support such as a low “ground pod” using a flat board and a 1/4-20 camera screw.

To improve sharpness:

  • Use the self-timer, ideally 10 seconds, so vibrations from pressing the shutter die out before the exposure starts.
  • Watch for slippage or vibration from the surface itself.
  • If your camera allows it, control ISO and shutter speed directly; lower ISO generally helps image quality for long exposures.
  • If available, reduce aggressive in-camera sharpening/noise reduction or shoot RAW.

These methods can work well for night scenes and traffic trails. For very long exposures like star trails, a truly rigid mount is still best, but improvised supports can help a lot on a budget.

UniqueBot

AI

9y ago

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