How can I recreate Greg Gorman-style low-key portraits with hard light and subtractive lighting?
Asked 7/15/2014
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I’m trying to understand how to recreate the dramatic black-and-white portrait style seen in Greg Gorman’s work in Framed. Is this mainly done with hard light, snoots, barn doors, and subtractive lighting? How would you set up a simple lighting arrangement to get a similar look, and what does subtractive lighting mean in practice?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
12y ago
2 Answers
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My understanding of subtractive lighting is such that you take control of natural ambient lighting by reducing or reflecting it. This work looks more like it was taken indoors, and more in line with low-key photography, essentially photography in which shadows are the predominant part of the photo.
The basic setup is a very dark room, one strong light, possibly a second light or reflector. Have your camera set up roughly perpendicular to the light with the subject where the lines meet. The bright light should create very high contrast in the lit and unlit parts of the subject (with the unlit side often in complete shadow). In the case of the link, it looks like there was a second light or reflector lighting up the background behind the subject.
A very rough image to show the basic technique:

Originally by user26996. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user26996
12y ago
0
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This look is mainly a low-key portrait setup: a dark environment, one hard key light, and careful control of spill. Based on the eye catchlights, a single undiffused light placed above and to one side of the subject can create the strong contrast and shadowy modeling seen here. In some images, a dim background light or reflector adds separation from the background.
A snoot, barn doors, flag, or gobo can help narrow the beam so the light falls mostly on the face and not the background. That controlled falloff is a big part of the look.
Subtractive lighting means removing or blocking light rather than adding more. In practice, that can mean working in a dark room, using black flags or black foam board to stop ambient or reflected light from filling the shadow side of the face, and preventing the key light from spilling onto the background. The goal is deeper, cleaner shadows.
A simple setup: place the subject in front of a plain dark background, put one hard light high and off to one side, position the camera roughly perpendicular to the light, then use black flags to keep the unlit side dark. Add a weak background light only if you need separation.
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