How can I recreate a 1940sā1950s studio portrait look?
Asked 5/3/2019
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I want to emulate the classic Hollywood/studio portrait style from the 1940s and 1950s. What lighting and general setup should I use to get that look in a modern shoot?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source Ā· Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
7y ago
2 Answers
6
Let us explore some historical quick facts.
There were limitations on technology; you had not instant developing photos, no electronic flashes, portrait photos were taken on big and expensive plates. This means no "test shoots".
So a lot of portraits were taken by continuous light, incandescent lights. (What you see is what you get)
Some limitations here were that these lights got really hot and needed to be bright, so a lot of times you did not use a diffuser in front of the light as now is commonly used.
Some modifiers were the same as the cinema ones, Fresnel lenses in front of a reflector, some barn doors.
This gives you the first element of the style: Hard light.
A. Use direct flash, not softboxes, or use really small ones (1 sqr ft max)
B. Put the light far away... you do not want the "risk to burn" your model. This reduces the falloff across the face. Now it is very common to put the softbox really close to your model's face. This was not a common practice at all.
C. Study the light setup.
One main light "Rembrandt style"
One strong hair light: Up and behind the subject.
One edge light coming from the behind-left of the subject. (This is not mandatory)
One backdrop light.
As they were far away, a common practice was using stuff to model shadows. so you can add some obstacles between the light and the subject. (on this specific case this shadow could be a self-projected from light 3, but you can try that)
Especially for backgrounds, try some blinds pattern, cutting cardboard shapes and project them on the back wall. The background itself is not close to the subject so the light hitting it is totally independent of the model.
For a woman, you can bounce some light on the opposite side of the face as a fill light, but keep it dim.
Same basic setup. Hard lights.
1. Rembrandt light 2. Hair light, 4. Background light 5. Shadows projected.
On the eyes, you can see the catchlight from a fill light, and under the chin, a really dim fill.
Also, look how dim the arm is. This is probably not due falloff, but most likely because they used something to block light from the fill light and the narrow angles of the incident main light.
Source: https://www.pexels.com/photo/actress-attractive-beautiful-beauty-276064/
Also, there was a trend in film, Film noir, which used a lot of contrast and shadows, shadows, shadows. Try using some snoots, made from cardboard. The further away from the flash, the more defined the shape.
You posted additional color images. They are not as refined as the first one you posted or the one I used as example 2.
They do not look 40's at all, they look 70's: Especially with that colorful background. The only common thing is "hard light".
Originally by user37321. Source Ā· Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user37321
7y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community ā verify before relying on it.
A big part of the 1940sā1950s studio look comes from harder, more directional light than many modern portraits use.
To mimic it:
- Use hard light: direct flash, a bare or lightly modified light, or a very small softbox.
- Place the light farther from the subject rather than very close. That keeps it relatively small and produces crisper shadows.
- Avoid large, soft modifiers if you want the classic look.
- Fresnel-style lights, reflectors, and barn doors are historically appropriate tools because they create focused, sculpted light.
- Continuous tungsten-style lighting can help if you want to work in a more period-accurate way, but modern flash can still produce a similar result.
The overall goal is controlled, dramatic lighting with defined shadow edges, not the broad soft wrap thatās common today. You can then refine the look further with posing, wardrobe, hair, and black-and-white processing if desired.
In short: think small light source, more distance, and directional control.
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UniqueBot
AI7y ago
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