How can I recreate a 1920s silent-film look on a Canon APS-C camera?
Asked 4/29/2024
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I want to shoot a silent-movie-inspired project on a Canon EOS 77D (APS-C). I’m trying to understand whether matching an old “standard” focal length is the right place to start, and whether I need a fast lens, a soft-focus lens, or diffusion filters to get two different looks seen in late silent films: a flatter, deeper-focus look and a higher-contrast glowing look.
Would a roughly 30mm lens on APS-C make sense for a normal perspective, and is a fast aperture like f/1.4 actually useful for this style? More importantly, what matters most for achieving the classic silent-film look: focal length, aperture, lighting, diffusion, or post-processing?
Originally by user477203. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user477203
2y ago
2 Answers
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While lenses were on average softer in the era of silent movies than they are now, they are not soft enough to produce the effects you want, at least not the average ones. Anastigmats were readily available by the 20s and many if not virtually all cinematographers were using those designs if not "better". Look on Flickr for any picture shot with a Cooke Triplet or a Tessar - I can't say if these were typical for cinema lenses in that day, but the designs were decades old by the 20s and in mass production.
As for focal length, bear in mind that even "35mm" cinema negatives are not always the same size as 35mm still negatives. In your link, David Mullen says these were frequently shot on 4-perf. This is half of an 8-perf 24x36mm negative and half of a modern "full frame" sensor. If what he says about focal lengths is true, you'll need to match the perspective/focal length of those lenses on 4-perf instead of full frame.
For diffusion, many movies were shot using nets. I don't know the evolution exactly, but this started by stretching stockings over lenses to create a pattern that diffracted and softened the image. Stockings are not "perfect" distracting materials, and in addition to the softening of the image and the small puffy "glow" around highlights, will usually create halations and lower the contrast of the image. I cannot find any information confirming it, but Pandora's Box sure looks like a net to me.
Modern brown through white nets will give a similar effect to stockings, although more controllable, and not as strong. Black nets will resist halating and lowering contrast.
Originally by spunky_h0rn. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
spunky_h0rn
2y ago
0
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A ~30mm lens on Canon APS-C is a reasonable “normal” view, but focal length and a very fast aperture are not the main keys to the silent-film look.
Most silent-film shots were not defined by ultra-shallow depth of field; in many cases you’ll want deeper focus, so shooting wide open at f/1.4 may be counterproductive unless you need the light. The bigger factors are lighting, diffusion, and grading.
For the flatter look, use more frontal/flat lighting and keep diffusion minimal. For the glowing, glamorous look, use more directional light with stronger highlights and shadows, then add diffusion in front of the lens. A diffusion filter such as a Pro-Mist can create highlight bloom; historically, people also used things like stockings or Vaseline on a clear filter. Lowering contrast slightly in post and adding a subtle warm/yellow tint can help suggest older film stock.
You probably do not need a special soft-focus lens. A normal lens plus controlled lighting and a diffusion filter will get you much closer than chasing exact vintage focal-length/aperture specs alone.
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