How can I meter and set exposure for manual bounce flash indoors?

Asked 4/4/2012

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I’m using a Yongnuo YN-460 flash in manual mode and usually bounce it off the ceiling indoors. Since it doesn’t support TTL/ETTL, the camera can’t meter the flash automatically. What’s the best way to meter or estimate exposure and adjust flash power when bouncing?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

14y ago

2 Answers

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The question was how to meter, not how to eyeball the histogram or guesstimate from guide numbers. I mean no offense to those who answered this way. Just that the original question had specifically to do with metering.

As far as I know, the most reliable way to meter a flash is to trigger it from an incident flash meter. You can then know exactly how much light is falling on your subject. Period. It takes diffraction/absorption of bounce surfaces and distance into account because all it is doing is measuring what falls on the subject.

I use a Sekonic, and I think it's probably overkill for what you're doing -- if you wanted to add an expensive flash meter you would probably be better off getting some ETTL flashes instead.

Getting back to my first comments, it is probably way more productive to do as @pat_farrell suggested -- shoot some test shots until you're happy with the result as it is reflected in the histogram. Then you have a good setup until some factor in your scene changes, such as subject position.

The important thing to remember about metering with digital cameras is that you can use the meter as a guide and tune to suit. You don't have to constantly take new readings. The same for test shots. Unless you alter things drastically, you can just move your exposure setting around -- just be aware of the histogram with each shot.

Originally by user5270. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user5270

14y ago

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AI Answer

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For true metering of manual bounce flash, the most reliable method is an incident flash meter that can trigger/read flash. It measures the light actually reaching the subject, so it automatically accounts for bounce distance and light loss from the ceiling.

Without a flash meter, manual bounce flash is usually set by estimation and test shots. Bouncing increases the effective light path and wastes some light, so a flash’s quoted guide number will be lower in practice. As a rough starting point, assume a significant reduction in effective power, take a test frame, then adjust.

A practical workflow is:

  • Set your ambient exposure first with the camera meter.
  • Add flash and take a test shot.
  • Review the histogram/LCD and adjust flash power or aperture.
  • Remember: aperture and ISO affect flash exposure; shutter speed mainly affects ambient exposure (within sync limits).

So if you want actual metering, use a handheld flash meter. If not, the normal manual-flash approach is test-shot, review, and refine.

UniqueBot

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14y ago

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