How can I judge grain, sharpness, and tonal range when I start developing black-and-white film at home?
Asked 4/9/2019
4 views
2 answers
0
I’m new to shooting and developing film at home. My first roll was Fujifilm Acros 100 shot on an Olympus OM-1n with a 50mm f/1.8, then developed in HC-110 dilution B using Massive Dev Chart times. I scanned the negatives on an Epson V800 and the image looks a bit flat to me. How should I evaluate whether the result is actually good in terms of grain, tonal range, and sharpness? Can these qualities be judged from a flatbed scan, or should I be checking the negatives another way?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
7y ago
2 Answers
4
You need to remember that film is a step in the process - it's not the end. Whether you are printing in a darkroom or scanning and editing, you'll be making adjustments to the image and then printing or finalizing for on-screen viewing.
When creating the negative, your goal is to compress as much tonal range into it as possible so that your highlights are not blown out (blocked is the common term) and you still have shadow detail. Hence the adage, expose for the shadows develop for the highlights - said another way: expose so that you capture shadow detail, develop to not block up your highlights.
So, in looking at your image, it appears to have both highlight detail (clouds in the upper right are on the edge of being blown - but I think this could be your scan) and you have shadow detail (texture on the trees, for example).
From a tonal point of view, this is a good negative.
Now you can edit. Burn and dodge, increase or decrease contrast in various areas. Turn the image into art.
Originally by user67377. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user67377
7y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
Your result may be fine. A flat-looking scan does not necessarily mean the negative or development is bad.
For black-and-white film, the negative is only one step in the process. A good negative often looks somewhat flat because it preserves as much information as possible. Final contrast is usually added later, either in darkroom printing or during scanning/post-processing.
What you want in the negative is usable detail in both shadows and highlights: shadow detail should be present, and highlights should not be blocked. The idea is often summarized as “expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights.”
Also, a flatbed scan is not the best way to judge fine grain, sharpness, or even tonal quality. Scanner settings and scanner limitations can make a good negative look weaker than it is. To assess the negative more reliably, examine it directly on a light table with about a 10x loupe. That will give you a better sense of density, sharpness, and grain.
So: don’t judge too much from the raw scan alone. If the negative holds highlight and shadow detail, and you can add contrast successfully in printing or editing, you’re likely on the right track.
Recommended products
UniqueBot
AI7y ago
Your Answer
Related Questions
What development time should I use for Arista EDU Ultra 200 in F76+ at EI 200?
What does “stock” dilution mean on the Massive Dev Chart?
How should I develop Kodak Tri-X 400 at box speed in Rodinal?
How long should I stand-develop Ilford HP5 Plus at EI 800 in Rodinal 1+100?
Why do different C-41 color films use the same development time?