How can I improve focus on birds in foliage with a Nikon D3300 and 55-200mm lens?
Asked 4/6/2015
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I’m shooting birds with a Nikon D3300 using the 18-55mm VR and 55-200mm Nikkor kit lenses. I often struggle to get sharp focus on birds, especially when they’re surrounded by branches or leaves, and sometimes even when they’re stationary. I usually use center-point autofocus or Sports mode in good light, but the camera still seems to grab the background or miss focus at longer focal lengths.
At or near 200mm, I’m also finding that sharp results seem harder to achieve unless the bird is fairly close. I’d like more of the bird in focus rather than a very shallow depth of field, but stopping down doesn’t always seem to solve the problem.
Is this mainly a limitation of autofocus in cluttered scenes, depth of field at longer focal lengths, or possibly the lens? What settings or techniques are most effective for bird photography with this camera, and would a different lens help?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
11y ago
2 Answers
6
As a bird photographer (I was founder of the bird photography group on G+) I have to say that photographing birds is hard. The areas around birds tend to be clutters (leaves, branches, etc) and this can confuse the autofocus. Light is normally marginal so you need the large apertures, which narrows depth of field, so any auto focus mistake kills the image. Or because the light is weak, you simply can't get a fast enough shutter speed so you can't freeze movement.
With 40,000 images under my belt, it's not uncommon for me to throw out a large chunk of a shoot away because of technical flaws, often AF misfires. So it's not just you. One big difference between your images and the images you see online is that the people posting them online delete their bad images -- not that they don't take them.
Different lenses can help in some ways (wider aperture for faster shutter speeds, fast AF) but there aren't any magic cookies. What helps is going out and shooting, practicing to learn your gear, studying birds to know their behavior, learning out to find birds in flattering light, patience to be able to wait those three hours for that 45 seconds when everything lines up just how you want -- and then being able to catch the shot and not lose it.
You need to learn your gear. You need to learn how the AF works and why it doesn't, how to adjust the autofocus controls and your shooting so that the AF does what you want it to -- as I like to say it, you have to put in the time (and failed images) to learn how to make the camera give you the image you want and not the image it feels like giving you.
You will want to upgrade your lenses, but you should practice with the ones you have until you understand how to take the best shots you can with them -- because until you do, better lenses won't make you a significantly better photographer, just one with more expensive gear. I always tell people not to buy new gear until you can explain WHY the thing you want to buy will solve a problem for you or fill a gap your current gear struggles to solve. Too many people buy into the marketing hype of "better gear will make me a good photographer", when in fact, while better gear may hide some of your mistakes, they'll likely cause other problems, too, and you need to know how to solve them.
Be aware that if you get serious about bird photography, you'll be talking about fairly significant gear -- 400mm is a practical minimum, not 200mm. Birds are small, and birds fly away, so the lure of big fast glass gets serious.
Take lots of shots. Study the failures and understand why they failed. Often, it's because the AF focussed on something else in the frame (like a branch, or the chest of the bird and not the eye) because that's what you told it to do. So you need to learn the AF system so you can tell it what to do and get the results you want.
there's no shortcut around that. it takes time, practice, throwing away images, and studying how the camera works so you're in charge. More gear, faster gear and expensive gear won't do any of that for you.
Originally by user705. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user705
11y ago
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Bird photography is genuinely difficult, especially with branches and leaves near the subject. In cluttered scenes, autofocus can lock onto the background instead of the bird, and at longer focal lengths on a DSLR your depth of field is much thinner than with a small-sensor superzoom camera, so focus errors are more obvious.
Your D3300 and 55-200mm can work, but success rate will depend heavily on technique. Bright light helps, and shutter speeds around 1/500 to 1/1000 are commonly useful for freezing bird movement. Stopping down somewhat can increase depth of field, but it won’t fix missed focus if AF chooses the wrong target.
The main issue is likely AF in complex scenes rather than a faulty lens. Birds in foliage are a tough subject for entry-level AF systems, and a single focus point still won’t guarantee the camera picks exactly what you want if the target is small or partially obscured.
A practical improvement is to rely less on full auto or Sports mode and take more control of settings. Some bird shooters even prefer manual focus in these situations. A longer lens can help by making the bird larger in the frame, but no lens completely solves focus confusion in busy backgrounds.
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UniqueBot
AI11y ago
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