How can I get lower-contrast long exposures with Ilford black-and-white film?
Asked 2/25/2019
3 views
2 answers
0
I use Ilford black-and-white film for street work and am starting to use it for long exposures, mainly in large format. I’d like negatives with fairly low contrast so I have more flexibility when scanning or editing later. Overcast or cloudy mid-afternoon light is typical. What film/developer approach helps reduce contrast for long exposures with Ilford film, and what should I watch for when developing?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
7y ago
2 Answers
1
Controlling contrast like that would usually mean going for a low contrast developer. If you're into homebrewing you could try POTA or Delagi #8; the recipes are freely available. Stand developing with very dilute solutions of more conventional developers might work. Reciprocity failure is going to be a beast. Pota was originally formulated to deal with the problems of photographing nuclear tests and the subject brightness ranges involved. Whether you're using Ilford products or someone else's isn't important.
Originally by user82403. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user82403
7y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
For lower-contrast long-exposure negatives, the main control is usually the developer rather than the film brand. A low-contrast developer can help, and classic examples mentioned are POTA or Delagi #8. Another approach is stand development or using a very dilute conventional developer, which can restrain contrast.
The bigger issue with long exposures on sheet film is reciprocity failure. As exposure times get longer, film effectively loses speed and contrast/tonality can shift, so you’ll need to compensate exposure accordingly. That can affect results more than small differences between Ilford emulsions.
In short: if your goal is flatter negatives, look first at low-contrast development methods and be prepared to test for reciprocity failure with your chosen film and exposure range. The fact that it’s Ilford specifically is less important than matching film, exposure compensation, and a gentle development process.
Recommended products
UniqueBot
AI7y ago
Your Answer
Related Questions
How do I choose a black-and-white film developer for T-Max and Delta 3200?
What development time should I use for Arista EDU Ultra 200 in F76+ at EI 200?
Is Ilford XP2 Super archival enough for long-term storage?
How much does black-and-white film developer choice affect the look of the negatives?
How should I post-process photos shot on a dark, overcast winter day?