The basic edit tool is "curves." Here is a list of what we see in my diagram.

A) Your image

B) Your image after the curve

C) Your reference image

D) The curve applied

Normally when we think about "vibrant" we think about two things. Contrast and saturation.

As your image is underexposed, we brightened it using the top part of the curve, but to avoid washing it out, I anchored the lower part of the curve.

This makes it in fact more contrasted. In a curve the more inclined the line is more contrast it produces.

But this also increases the saturation, depending on the image wich also increases the "vibrant" thing, but In some cases, we actually need to reduce the saturation.

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I do not know how similar the two watches are, so I used as a reference the thing I assume is the most uniform between the models, the zone of the small circles. (E) But this caused the rest of the watch to be overexposed.

So, either we make a decision on:

• What to prioritize
• Mask zones of the watch to use different curves
• Or relight our watch.

I would mask the zones, probably also the watch straps.

But, unless we have the exact same lighting setup, including distances, materials, and powers... basically the same session, it is too complicated to have a 1-to-1 reference, so we have, again, to make choices.

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In (F) I used an external application, a tool that sees the screen color, on a particular spot (They are called "screen color picker")

But we also notice another thing. Either the watch has a different tint or we do not have our white balance set correctly. It is a bit too warm.

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Setting your white balance correctly is a super important step, but probably you want to use a color checker.