How can I compare LED panel output to a hotshoe flash setup?
Asked 1/1/2012
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I use Canon speedlights (two 580EX units and one 430EX) and I’m trying to understand what kind of LED continuous lighting would be needed to produce a similar level of illumination. Is there a practical way to compare an LED panel’s output with a conventional hotshoe flash, or is there a better reference point for judging equivalent output?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
14y ago
2 Answers
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It's very difficult to compare directly to flash of any sort, since flash (speedlight or studio flash) takes the shutter speed component of the exposure out of consideration. A more useful comparison is to traditional tungsten studio lighting -- quartz/tungsten/iodide lighting rather than photofloods, since that was more-or-less the industry standard before cool lighting alternatives (HMI, fluorescent, LED) came along.
A typical studio set-up for hot light portraiture would have consisted of a 650-1000W key light (the Ianiro Red Head and Lowel DP Light are good representatives of the type), with secondary lights of various wattages for background (usually a wide-throw light, such as the Lowel Tota), hairlights, kickers and accents. That is, as you might have guessed, a hell of a lot of light, but it was what was required to get a sufficiently high shutter speed to mostly eliminate subject motion -- with a posed subject -- at an ASA of 100 or so. I'm taking about 1/30 to 1/125 with typical portraiture apertures of f/5.6-11, depending on how far the light was from the subject and the kind of modifier you may have been using.
Now, in this day and age, we don't have to worry quite so much about sticking to low ISO settings, since there are few small-format cameras (APS-C or 35mm-format) that can't turn in a respectable performance at ISO 800, and many are excellent a couple of stops faster than that. That's both at least three stops of light you don't have to pay for and three stops of light your subjects don't have to endure (and if you've ever been shot on film under hot lights, you'd really appreciate that). So something that gives a 250-watt tungsten equivalent would be adequate for use in a small studio. You won't be able to turn night into day the way you can with 20KW HMI spots, but it's certainly good enough for posed portraits and large product shots, if you're willing to forget about very fast shutter speeds. When you can move the lighting in tighter, you can go faster. But if you're working hand-held or the subject is moving, you still need a metric crapload of light to make it work since you become dependent on the shutter speed.
That said, continuous lighting and flash are very different, and only overlap in use occasionally. Continuous lighting can be a lot easier to work with for still life, product and (fully-styled) food shots, where you can afford to take forever going over all of the placement details, reflectors, gobos and flags to achieve perfection and aren't too very worried about the shutter speed. With people, it pretty much means posing. LED lighting will probably get more powerful in the next little while, but there is also a limit to what people are going to put up with in terms of brightness. You can buy an Arri HMI spot right now that will work on household power and get you a fast shutter speed, but it's like staring at the sun. If people is your game, then studio flashes would be a better step up from speedlights than continuous lighting. The modeling lights will let you see shadows and highlights well enough to direct your subject, and it's a lot more comfortable for them to sit under while you're working.
Originally by user2719. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user2719
14y ago
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There isn’t a simple one-to-one comparison between an LED panel and a flash. A flash emits a very short, intense burst of light, while continuous LED output must be judged together with shutter speed, so exposure works differently.
A better comparison is LED vs traditional continuous “hot lights” rather than LED vs speedlight. In older portrait setups, continuous lighting often meant roughly a 650–1000W key light plus additional lower-powered lights for background, hair, or accent use. That gives a sense of how much continuous light is typically needed.
In practice, small LED panels are usually only useful at short distances, which matches what you’ve heard. If you’re happy with your current speedlight setup and want to duplicate that level of usable light with LEDs, expect to need substantially more continuous-light output than a small on-camera or compact panel can provide.
So: compare LEDs by their continuous-light performance, not by trying to match flash wattage directly. For replacing a multi-speedlight setup, look at larger, more powerful continuous fixtures rather than small panels.
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