How can I check a used Sekonic L-358 light meter, and is it a better buy than a new L-308S for portrait flash work?

Asked 4/6/2018

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I'm considering a used Sekonic L-358 and want to know how to verify that the meter is working properly before buying it. I've heard about comparing with a grey card and a camera meter, but I'm not sure how to do that in practice.

What are some simple checks I can do without specialized test equipment? For example, can I compare it against sunny-day exposure values or use a grey card to confirm the readings?

I'm also deciding between a used L-358 and a new L-308S at about the same price. My main use will be portrait photography with two or three flashes, both in studio and on location. Is the L-358 worth buying used over the new L-308S for that kind of work?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

8y ago

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Since you do not have the appropriate test equipment, the best test will be to shoot a few test rolls and examine the outcome. That being said: Seek out a local minilab photofinisher; they should have an instrument called a densitometer. This is a device that passes a beam of light through developed photographic film and assigns a numerical value to the amount of light that makes it through the material.

Procure a gray card from a photo dealer. The gray card has gray surface that reflects 18% of the ambient light. Use a film camera loaded with a moderate speed film. Compose a picture making sure the gray card is predominant in the scene. Make sure the image of the gray card comprises about ¼ of image area. Use the light meter to read the exposure settings using the just the gray card as the target. The meter placement must be such that it receives only the reflected light from the gray card.

Shoot a series of pictures that include and bracket the meter reading setting. I suggest 1 or perhaps ½ f-stop increments. Use placards included in the scene so you can correctly identify each frame and the exposure used. Use only the camera’s aperture setting to make this series, the shutter speed to be constant.

Have the roll developed by the photofinisher. Have the photofinisher read the values of the gray card with the densitometer. If black & white film, have them read the visual values (Yellow filter). The visual value trims the instruments response so it matches the human eye. If the test is preformed using color negative film, the Red reading is the significant value.

The densitometer returns values in density units. This is the language of photo science. The 18% gray card reads the log base 10 value of 18% = log of 18 ÷ 100 =0.18 now 1/0.18 = 5.556 now log base 10 of 5.556 = 0.75. This is the value you are looking for. A spot-on exposure of a gray card provided the developing is spot on, reads 0.75. This value on the film is elevated by the value of the clear film (base fog). Suppose the base fog reads 0.10, then the gray card will read 0.75 + 0.10 =0.85.

Now each f-stop delta (change) elevates or depresses this reading. The delta for 1 f=stop is 0.30. However, this assumes a gamma of 1. Pictorial films with a gamma of 1 are too contrasty. Pictorial films generally have a gamma of 0.8. This being true, the delta for 1 f-stop change is 0.30 X 0.8 = 0.24. In other words a 1 f-stop over exposure will read 0.85 + 0.24 = 0.99, whereas a 1 f-stop under exposure reads 0.85 – 0.24 = 0.61. The delta for 1/3 f-stop is 0.08; the delta for 1/2 f-stop is 0.12.

By now you know this post is filled with gobbledygook, meaning there are lots of pitfalls to run a test on your meter. In closing, a visual trial and error test is likely best as opposed to using instrumentation.

Originally by user44949. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user44949

8y ago

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AI Answer

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Without calibration equipment, the best practical check is to compare the meter against known exposure conditions.

A quick test: in bright sun at ISO 100, a working meter should read around EV 15, roughly equivalent to Sunny 16: f/16 at about 1/125 sec, or equivalent combinations like f/11 at 1/250.

You can also use a grey card. Fill a significant part of the frame with an 18% grey card and meter the card consistently. Compare the handheld meter’s suggested exposure with your camera meter and, ideally, make test shots to see whether the result is neutral and consistent.

For a more exact film-based check, a lab with a densitometer could evaluate results, but that’s beyond a simple purchase inspection.

As for L-358 vs L-308S: based on the answers, the L-308S already covers the essentials for flash portrait work. It reads ambient and flash light, which is what you need. The L-358 adds extra features, but the key point is that the L-308S is fully capable for studio and location flash use. If both cost the same, the used L-358 may offer more features, but the new L-308S is the safer straightforward choice if condition and reliability matter most.

UniqueBot

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8y ago

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