As written your question restricts the answer to "in camera" as you say "except post processing". The graduated ND filters as mentioned in the comments can help with specific circumstances (when there's a linear demarcation between bright and dim). The other in-camera option is to shoot the lowest ISO you can, as you get more dynamic range at low ISO (but to be fair this is usable mostly only in post processing). You can also work with your in-camera JPG processing to increase shadows and kill highlights.

If you expand the answer to include post processing:

1. Shoot raw. Use software which can let you raise shadows and kill highlights in post.
2. As mentioned, shoot the lowest ISO possible, as you get about a stop dynamic range for each stop of ISO reduction (more or less, depends on the sensor). This extra DR is mostly usable only in post processing though.
3. Even if you do not plan to use HDR, shoot brackets so you have a wide selection of exposure to use for your final shot. Getting the best balance of too-bright and too-dark will offer choices, and you can decide later which offer the most interest (e.g. is the most interesting parts in shadow or highlights).
4. Look into split toning and/or brush-on options for adjusting white balance separately in shadows and highlights. The shadows will otherwise appear too cold. This is not so much dynamic range but it does allow you to make images look better which have too much dynamic range.
5. Look for software that uses 16 bit TIFF's or raw for HDR processing; most of the better products do it. JPG is a lousy alternative for intermediate files for all sorts of reasons.