Canon EF 35-105mm USM autofocus struggles unless I help the focus ring — what is likely failing?
Asked 8/6/2018
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I have an older Canon EF 35-105mm f/4.5-5.6 USM on a Canon 350D. Autofocus is very slow, and this lens often starts to move, then gives up before reaching focus. If I gently assist the focus ring/barrel while half-pressing the shutter, it will focus much more quickly.
For an inexpensive older lens, what is the most likely cause: dried lubrication, a weak AF motor, or another mechanical fault? Is this something that can realistically be diagnosed or repaired by a beginner willing to experiment on a low-value lens?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
8y ago
2 Answers
3
To start with, this lens was notoriously slow even when working as designed. However, it seems your copy is demonstrating an additional issue which prevents the focusing mechanism from moving properly.
Could some cleaning or greasing of relevant parts of the inside help?
Possibly, but probably not. If the existing lubricants have dried cleaning and relubrication could help, but that's not a common cause for stiff focusing mechanisms.
Or is it likely that the AF motor needs replacement?
Again, not likely. This would be even less likely if it had a ring type USM motor. But in this case the AF motor is the Micro-USM variety. Still, most Micro-USM motor either work or they don't.
Which leads directly to the reason they most often fail - mechanical issues with the actual focusing helicoids that put too much of a load on the motor. This usually manifests itself one of two ways:
- Bent helicoid barrels, particularly on the end that extends out of the front of the lens when focused at close distances. This usually results in part of the focus mechanism's length of travel being stiffer than other parts.
- Worn or broken guide rollers where the inner barrel that contains the focusing elements moves along the slots in the outer helicoid barrel. This causes the focusing mechanism to bind up. Sometimes the screws holding the rollers in place work loose and they fall out.
It's possible the lens sat without being used for a long time. Working the focus mechanism in and out several times may loosen it up a bit. Try to feel if there are any rough spots that are tighter than others along the length of travel. Do this at several different zoom positions. Does the amount of resistance vary or is it always the same?
You can take the lens apart to see if you can find what the issue is and try to fix it. Most people aren't able to reassemble their first lens teardown, but you've got to start somewhere. It might as well be with a $10 lens. Some things to keep in mind:
- Flex cable are fragile. Unplug them carefully and never, ever pull on them. Use tweezers or other clamping tools (surgical clamps actually do pretty well) to grip the connectors on the end of the cable to pull them out of their sockets after pressing any applicable release tabs.
- Some screws are for holding the lens together. Other screws are for holding optical elements in alignment. You need to be able to tell the two types apart.
- Mark the position of everything before you detach it from whatever part it is attached to. Hint: shims and spacers aren't always necessarily symmetrical. They may be thicker on one side than the other.
- Never touch anything if you don't know what it is. Just oil from your skin is enough to ruin a focus position sensor in many lenses.
Originally by user15871. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user15871
8y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
This lens model was known to autofocus slowly even when healthy, so some sluggishness is normal. But needing manual help suggests an additional fault.
Based on the answers, the most likely problem is mechanical resistance in the focusing mechanism or gear train, not the motor itself. Dried grease or old lubricant could contribute, but that’s considered less common than a mechanical issue in the focus drive. With Canon’s Micro-USM designs, the motor often tends to either work or fail outright rather than just become “weak.”
So the main suspect is binding, wear, or damage in the internal focus mechanism. Cleaning and relubrication might help if old lubricant is the cause, but it’s not the most likely fix. Replacing the motor is also not the first thing to assume.
For a very cheap lens, opening it as a learning project may be reasonable, but DIY repair can be tricky if you haven’t disassembled lenses before. In practical terms, unless you want the experience, replacement is usually more sensible than repair on a low-value older zoom.
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AI8y ago
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