Can I make a black-and-white print that keeps fogging in light for a few minutes before turning dark?
Asked 12/27/2017
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I want a black-and-white darkroom print that looks normal at first, but then continues to darken or fog when exposed to room light. My idea was to avoid fully finishing the print so it remains light-sensitive. Should I skip the fixer, skip the stop bath, or process it some other way? Ideally the print would stay viewable for about 1–5 minutes before it goes black.
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
8y ago
2 Answers
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For many years, portrait photographers dispensed “proof” prints on unfixed photo paper. The client took them home to share them with family and friends. The client generally returned to the studio and ordered a selection of finished portraits. Those “proofs” not returned soon faded. We are talking about fading in a few days of viewing in normal room light. You can do the same.
Develop your prints as you normally do. Bathe them in stop bath or just rinse in running water. Package them in lightproof material (aluminum foil works). Each time the print is viewed, ambient room light will cause some of the undeveloped/un-fixed silver salts to self-reduce. This is the fading process. At any stage, as the image deteriorates, you can bath the paper in a fix bath. This will preserve it from further deterioration.
If it’s just the fading effect you are after, you can develop normally and then turn on the darkroom white lights and watch the image fade. Again, at any juncture, you can plop the print into the fixer.
A neat trick: Develop, stop, fix and wash as normal. Soak the finished print in part A Farmer’s reducer. This is potassium ferricyanide (not particularly toxic). This action bleaches the silver image, and the paper can be bleached until the image disappears. You can then plop this dry, seemingly plain paper in an ordinary developer, and voila! The print is seen developing before your eyes. I used this trick to demonstrate what was happening to paper and to film. An effective teaching tool, because it can be carried out in normal room light.
Originally by user44949. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user44949
8y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
Yes—if you want the print to keep changing in light, the usual approach is to leave it unfixed, not to leave developer active on it.
Develop the print normally, then stop development with a stop bath or a thorough water rinse. Do not fix it. Keep it in lightproof packaging until viewing. Once exposed to room light, the remaining light-sensitive silver salts will continue to fog/darken the paper.
A few important points:
- Skipping the stop bath is not the key effect; stop/rinse is used to halt development.
- The continuing change in light comes from the print being unfixed and still light-sensitive.
- In normal room light, unfixed proof prints historically faded over days, not instantly. Exact timing depends on paper, exposure, and light level, so 1–5 minutes may require testing and may be difficult to control.
- If you like the look at some stage, you can then put the print in fixer to preserve it from further change.
Best practice: make test prints on inexpensive paper and keep them in darkness until use.
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