Best lens and tethered focusing for photographing artwork with a Canon T2i
Asked 2/7/2011
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I’m photographing flat artwork with a Canon T2i, tethered to a laptop, and want the most accurate, low-distortion results. I’d like to know:
- Can focus be adjusted from the laptop while tethered, or is manual focus only done on the lens?
- Does USM help with tethered focusing, or is it mainly about autofocus speed and full-time manual override?
- Can the T2i use both EF-S and EF lenses?
- For artwork reproduction, is a macro prime still better than a zoom if I want to avoid edge bending/distortion?
- If I’m shooting pieces up to about 30x40 inches from as far as 10 feet away, is there any reason to prefer a 100mm macro over a 50mm or 60mm macro?
I’m considering Canon’s 50mm/60mm macro options and wondering whether cropping slightly is better than using a zoom to frame different artwork sizes.
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
15y ago
2 Answers
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Your camera is built for EF-S lenses, but EF lenses will work just fine. It's going the other way (trying to use EF-S lenses on a full-frame EF-mount camera) that's fraught with danger. And unless you are shooting things that are less than three inches on the longest side, a 1:2 "half-macro" lens will work just fine.
The reason we kept hammering on about using a macro lens is because they are usually very good at making sure that rectangles remain rectangles -- they are corrected for rectilinearity, and usually don't have barrel (bulging) or pincushion (pinching) distortion that you can find without really accurate measuring devices. Zooms almost always have one or the other kind of distortion (and often both, one at each end of the zoom range). If you're taking pictures of "stuff" in the real world, you don't often notice a small amount of barrel or pincushion distortion, but when you are shooting rectangles it'll be apparent.
Macros also tend to have very flat planes of focus (I mentioned that before) so you can set the aperture for the best sharpness the lens can offer and don't have to worry about depth of field. (With some lenses, you'd need to focus so that a circle of the artwork about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way out from the center is in sharp focus, then stop the lens down until the center and the corners appear to be in focus as well.)
A zoom lens that is both well-corrected for geometric distortion and has a very flat field is going to be pricey (and price alone is no guarantee -- read any technical lens reviews you can find online). A good fixed-length (prime) lens is going to be a lot easier to find at a digestible price point.
If you are not shooting the works in situ, then a copy table/stand will help a lot with the workflow. A commercial copy stand can be expensive, but if you're handy at all (or know somebody who is) then building a version that is better than what's commercially available isn't too terribly difficult or expensive. I can send you plans for one if you email me (put a period between my first and last names and send it to Gmail).
<aside>I really need to post some of the DIY stuff I've created on a website sometime. When you build the stuff that you can build, you can save many thousands of dollars. I figure that I paid for my RZ67 and a couple of lenses with money I didn't spend on other gear.</aside>
Originally by user2719. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user2719
15y ago
0
Generated from our catalog & community — verify before relying on it.
Yes, the T2i can use both EF-S and EF lenses. The main limitation is the other way around: EF-S lenses are not for full-frame EF bodies.
For tethered shooting, focus can usually be adjusted electronically in small steps, but true manual focus still means turning the focus ring on the lens. Zoom is not something you can normally control from tethering software; you physically adjust the lens.
USM does not make tethered focusing possible by itself. Its main benefits are faster, quieter autofocus, and on some lenses full-time manual focus override.
For copying artwork, a macro prime is generally the best choice because macro lenses are typically very well corrected for rectilinear accuracy, so rectangles stay rectangular. Zooms commonly show barrel or pincushion distortion, especially toward either end of the range. If framing varies, it’s usually better to use a macro prime and crop a little rather than rely on a zoom.
You also do not need true 1:1 magnification for large artwork; even a 1:2 macro is sufficient for subjects much larger than a few inches.
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