Best focus and camera settings for macro flower photos on a Nikon D5000
Asked 5/31/2016
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I’m new to macro photography and using a Nikon D5000 with a 60mm macro lens. I’m confused about which settings matter for focusing close-up subjects like flowers and leaves. Should I use autofocus or manual focus for macro? Also, are Matrix and Spot focus modes, and do they still apply in Manual exposure mode? My goal is to fill the frame with a flower or leaf and keep as much of it sharp as possible without using focus stacking if I can avoid it.
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
10y ago
2 Answers
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what focusing mode should I use
Any AF mode that works for you is fine, but many people prefer to set the camera to manual focus mode and make fine adjustments to focus by moving the camera. You can mount the camera to a macro focus rail and mount that on a tripod to make it easy to make and maintain small front/back and side to side adjustments.
Matrix, Spot or what?
Those are metering modes. Again, anything that works for you is fine. That said, it's easy for the light meter and auto exposure system to be fooled when doing macro work. For example, filling the frame with a white flower can cause the camera to think the scene will be overexposed and try to compensate, giving you an image that may be much darker than what you want. For that reason, it's a good idea to work in manual exposure mode and adjust the exposure parameters (shutter speed, aperture, ISO, flash) yourself to get the shot you want.
I would like to take photos of flowers, leaves etc. that fill the whole image and are sharp basically right across the photo, rather than just in one dedicated spot.
That's a depth of field problem more than a focus problem. When the subject is very close to the camera, you get very narrow depth of field and it can be hard to get everything in focus at once. Using a small aperture helps, but you may need to add light to the scene (via speedlights, for example) to get the exposure you want.
The problem is compounded if you're hand holding the camera, because very small movements can have a big impact on focus. In that case, you'll want to use a servo autofocus mode so that the camera is continually adjusting focus right up until you take the shot. Image stabilization will also help if it's available.
Originally by user4262. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user4262
10y ago
0
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For macro, many photographers prefer manual focus, especially at higher magnifications. A common technique is to set focus manually, then fine-tune by gently moving the camera forward or backward rather than relying only on the focus ring. A tripod or macro focusing rail can help a lot.
If you’re shooting flowers and leaves at more moderate magnification, autofocus on a selected focus point can still work well.
Matrix and Spot are metering modes, not focus modes. They control exposure metering, and they still matter even if you shoot in Manual exposure mode because the meter is still giving you a reading. In macro, metering can be easily fooled by subjects like bright flowers, so Manual exposure is often useful.
To keep more of the subject sharp without focus stacking, you’ll mainly need more depth of field: stop down the aperture and try to keep the subject plane parallel to the camera sensor. A tilt-shift lens can also help by changing the plane of focus, but that’s a more specialized solution.
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