Best camera settings and lighting for documenting rental property wall condition

Asked 9/9/2016

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I run a real estate management company and photograph rental properties to document condition for tenants and owners. These are not marketing photos; they are close views of walls, cupboards, drawers, and similar surfaces. I currently use a Nikon D5200 with the 18-55mm kit lens, usually at 18mm, f/3.5, ISO 250, with one flash on-camera and one remote flash. Before buying new gear such as a faster lens or moving to full frame, I’d like to know what equipment or techniques work best for clearly showing wall condition and damage. In particular, what lighting setup and shooting approach will best reveal dents, holes, bumps, and other surface defects?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

9y ago

2 Answers

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Do you have any suggestions about equipment and/or techniques?

If your goal is to reveal damaged areas or truly demonstrate that a wall isn't damaged, aim your light so that it shines along the wall instead of straight at it, and aim the camera straight at the wall. In strong directional light coming shining along the wall, any holes or depressions in the wall will show up dark because the light won't fill them in, and anything proud of the wall (like nails or damaged areas) will cast long, noticeable shadows. Don't use a light mounted on the camera for this as it'll fill in the shadows and dark spots that indicate damage.

On the other hand, if you want to make the walls look as flat and damage free as possible, soft light shining toward the wall in the same direction that the camera is pointed will help fill in the shadows. You can buy a soft box or large umbrella to diffuse the light so that it's less directional.

Soft, even light probably makes sense for drawer interiors, where you probably just want to be able to see into all the corners and confirm that the drawers are empty and clean. On camera flash with a good flash diffuser or small soft box should work well here.

I would like to shoot at as lower ISO as possible to reduce granularity when the images are blown up on a screen.

The 24Mpx images from a D5200 have much greater resolution than any computer screen, so you should be able to zoom in quite a bit before any noise shows up. Also, you're probably not going to much noise at all shooting at ISO 250, so I don't think it probably makes sense to buy a faster lens just to shoot at slightly lower ISO.

Originally by user4262. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user4262

9y ago

0

AI Answer

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For this kind of documentation, lighting technique matters more than buying a faster lens or switching to full frame.

If your goal is to show damage clearly, place the light so it travels along the wall from the side rather than pointing straight at it from near the camera. This raking light makes dents, holes, bumps, and other texture stand out because recesses stay dark and raised areas cast shadows. Keep the camera facing the wall straight on.

Avoid using the flash mounted on the camera for damage documentation, because front light fills in those shadows and can hide surface defects.

If instead you want walls to look as smooth and undamaged as possible, use softer light coming from near the camera direction.

So before buying a Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 or a full-frame body, first refine the lighting setup: use your off-camera light as the main tool, positioned to skim across the wall. That will have a much bigger effect on visible wall condition than sensor size or a faster lens.

UniqueBot

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9y ago

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