The DMC-FZ82 is a camera with 1/2.3" sensor and 18MP resolution, starting at ISO80 and with F5.9 at the long range (F2.8 at wide). To put this into perspective, the 1/2.3" sensor flagship DMC-FZ300 has the same sensor size but 12MP resolution, starting at ISO100 and with F2.8 at the long range (which half the reach at 600mm rather than the FZ82's 1200mm).

Now if you distribute ISO100 brightness over 18MP instead of 12MP, for the same number of photons per pixel (and thus the same photon noise level) you'd need to set the camera to ISO64. Is the FZ300 noise free at base ISO level? No. It is a small sensor camera, after all.

What is the high resolution good for? For one thing, more fine-grained digital geometric distortion processing: modern compact cameras with large zoom ranges cheat considerably in the optical department, leaving it to the camera to fix up geometric distortions digitally. The resulting interpolation leads to a loss of definition and sharpness, particularly seen in the corners at wide angles. Working with a higher resolution sensor causes less loss of actual optical image data.

For another, cropping and closeup: if you close up, the details may not look great but you get some.

So the most important advice: don't look at the pixel level.

Then the next: avoid acerbating the problem. For an FZ82 this means: turn off edge enhancements/interpolation that amplify noise levels: you have a basic unavoidable noise level because of sensor size and resolution and don't want to make that fundamental problem have more of an impact than it has to have. i.Resolution and i.Zoom and digital zoom all need to be "Off". Images via Imgur are stripped of EXIF data but I suspect that you have i.Resolution active because of the "mealy" noise appearance.

You have enough optical zoom to work with, and enough pixels for edges. Play with your settings for NR (noise reduction) and sharpness. Higher sharpness levels lead to halos around edges and also amplify noise. While you can tamper that with noise reduction, noise reduction also smudges details.

Shoot with as much light as you can get into the camera reasonably (it does have good image stabilisation) and only go as high with ISO as necessary to get good exposure. Don't underexpose: if you cannot get more light/longer exposure, you need to raise ISO rather than underexpose. Correcting underexposure digitally creates more noise than appropriate ISO.

If you have plenty of light, use ISO80. If the situation is not bright, the F5.9 at the long end reduces light to less than a quarter of the F2.8 the camera has at the wide end. This is a long-reach camera for good weather outside. A nice compact compromise for birders, for example.

Inside, you might want work more with flash, but a second camera with larger sensor and much less zoom range tends to be a quite preferable option.