Why do long exposures show a bright purple patch in one corner, even with the lens cap on?
Asked 11/17/2016
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On my Samsung NX300M, long exposures show a large brighter area with a purple tint in the lower-left corner. It appears in real photos and also in dark-frame tests with the lens cap on, so it does not seem to be caused by the lens.
Example conditions:
- 15 s, ISO 3200: visible bright/purple patch in the image corner
- 25 s, ISO 200, lens cap on, dark room: same area appears after boosting exposure in post
- In-camera long exposure noise reduction was initially disabled
Is this sensor damage, or is it normal long-exposure noise / fixed-pattern noise? Can anything be done about it besides replacing the camera? Also, if I shoot static dark scenes, is making my own averaged dark frame a reasonable approach?
Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
Photography Stack Exchange contributor
9y ago
2 Answers
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I do not know that specific camera, but generally sensors will have a pattern of thermal noise which is not uniform. The "Long Exposure Noise Reduction" feature, if your camera has it, is intended to offset this somewhat. Enabled, it does much as you did, taking one image with the shutter open, and one with the shutter (or in your case the lens cap) shut. In camera it would then subtract, numerically, each pixel of the latter from the former. The process is not perfect; noise is statistical in nature, and not perfectly repeatable. By that I mean that a specific pixel will not have the same value from such a "dark" frame twice, but what does happen is that some areas tends to be brighter, repeatably, in the same spot when taken under the same condition. Doing this "dark frame" subtraction thus selectively darkens the area.
One way to think of it, which is not far from reality, is that each pixel is a well that becomes more full as it exposes. Noise, in a sense, is garbage that is in the well and artificially fills it somewhat. The dark frame adjusts each pixel trying to get it back to an empty starting point. It is much better than just darkening the area, as that is proportional -- you are darkening the garbage instead of removing it, in a sense.
The dark frame subtraction (aka Long Exposure Noise Reduction) is also one of the few settings that affects a "raw" image in most cameras, high ISO noise exposure, for example, is not applied to the raw image. Long exposure noise reduction is.
Try turning on Long Exposure Noise Reduction. If you are curious about the technique, including being able to apply it manually, search for astrophotography and "dark frames", it is a very common practice there. It is also useful to do manually if your camera does not support it in camera, or if you need a lot of images in the same conditions and do not want to wait for a 2nd exposure for each one.
To your original question - did something you did cause this to be worse? My guess is no, but without some before and after shots, no way to know for sure. But what you posted does not look that unusual. Some cameras are better than others at producing less noise, but all are going to have some sort of pattern like this if you push hard enough to see it.
Originally by user28109. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0
user28109
9y ago
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This is most likely normal long-exposure sensor noise, not sensor damage. Two noise types matter here: random noise and fixed-pattern noise. Your corner glow/purple patch is consistent with fixed-pattern noise or thermal non-uniformity, which can show up in the same place even with the lens cap on during long exposures.
That is exactly what long-exposure noise reduction is meant to reduce: the camera makes a dark frame and subtracts it from the image. It helps most with repeatable patterns, but it cannot fully remove random noise because that changes from shot to shot.
So yes, what you saw with LENR is plausible: the corner pattern and line improve, but random noise remains and may appear more obvious after heavy boosting.
For static scenes, creating your own dark-frame calibration from multiple dark exposures can be a reasonable approach, especially if conditions stay the same. Averaging several dark frames can better characterize the repeatable pattern than a single dark frame.
In short: probably not a damaged sensor, but a normal limitation of long, high-gain exposures. Use lower ISO when possible, enable LENR for critical shots, and consider dark-frame subtraction for fixed scenes.
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AI9y ago
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