What do the green, orange, and manual modes do on a National PE-201C flash?

Asked 7/12/2011

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I’m trying to understand how to use the different modes on a National PE-201C flash. The guide chart makes sense in manual mode: for example, at a given distance and ISO I can choose the aperture from the chart. But this flash also has two auto modes, green and orange, plus M for manual.

How do the two auto modes differ in practice? The chart shows different distance ranges for green and orange, with some overlap, and the recommended f-numbers can differ. Does that mean one auto mode is for lower output and the other for higher output? Why do the ranges start at different distances?

Also, when should manual mode be used, and is it simply full-power flash with exposure controlled by aperture/ISO/distance?

Originally by Photography Stack Exchange contributor. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

Photography Stack Exchange contributor

15y ago

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Manual mode: the flash fires at its full power. You control the amount of exposure on your film by setting the f-stop on your camera. The chart helps you to determine the f-stop to use. The shutter speed is irrelevant to the flash exposure that the film will sense, but ambient (non-flash light) will still expose the film. So, for example, if you are outdoors, using ASA 800 film and a flash sync speed of 1/60 in order to fill-flash a person standing 20 feet from the flash, you will probably over expose the film even if you do set the flash correctly.

Auto mode: the flash has a crude, non-directional sensor on the front of it. This sensor must be unobstructed and pointing at the subject. It is handy, but not always accurate if you are finicky. This flash obviously has two flash intensities that it will use in auto mode. The higher intensity (green) will result in better flash-subject distances, smaller f-stop settings on the camera, and shorter flash durations which might be better for stop-action. It will also probably use up your batteries faster and age the capacitor more. The lower intensity will allow you to use the flash at closer distances or will give you a bit more flexibility in adjusting your fill-flash. Auto modes rely on you or your camera telling the flash what film speed you are using and what the aperture is set to. If you look around you will probably find a way to do that, a dial or a slide switch or something. Or it may rely on an extra pin to get that information from the camera, in which case it would be specific to a particular brand of camera. I have no idea if it is TTL flash capable.

Distance: the distances in this chart are flash-to-subject distances, not camera to subject. It is irrelevant how far your camera is from the subject. You are capturing the light that is reflected from your subject, so what matters is how much light is falling on your subject.

Chart: the full chart is used for manual mode, including the green and red columns. It's just a simple falloff chart. You can even extrapolate the chart out to the right or down to faster film speeds.

Originally by user25042. Source · Licensed CC BY-SA 4.0

user25042

12y ago

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Yes: on flashes of this type, M is typically full power manual. You use the chart to set aperture for your film ISO and subject distance. Flash exposure is then controlled by aperture, ISO, and distance; shutter speed mainly affects ambient light, not the flash burst itself.

The green and orange settings are the flash’s automatic thyristor modes. A sensor on the front of the flash measures light reflected from the subject and cuts off the flash when enough light has returned. For these modes, you set the camera to the aperture indicated for that color/ISO combination, and the flash varies its output automatically.

The two auto modes exist to give you different working apertures and ranges. One is effectively a lower-output / smaller-range auto setting, the other a higher-output / longer-range setting. That’s why their minimum and maximum distances differ, and why their ranges overlap: in the overlap, either mode can work, letting you choose between a wider aperture (less depth of field) or a smaller aperture (more depth of field).

The sensor must face the subject and remain unobstructed. Older auto-flash metering can be somewhat crude, but that’s the theory of operation.

UniqueBot

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15y ago

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